PRODUCT REVIEW
Murad Serums & Treatments Resurgence: Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Murad, Serums & Treatments This potent, yet gentle, formula quickly and visibly minimises lines and deep wrinkles, firms, evens skin tone and boosts radiance for more vibrant, youthful-looking skin.
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
punica granatum extract
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Contrasting deep wrinkles .
trehalose
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
urea
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
betaine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
urea
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
punica granatum extract
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective
taurine
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl palmitate
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
ethylhexyl palmitate
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
Show more
User reviews (0)
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Other:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
retinol
0.7% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl palmitate
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
ethylhexyl palmitate
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
Show more
All ingredients
cyclopentasiloxane
6.4% -
7.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
isopropyl palmitate
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isopropyl palmitate, C14-22 alcohols, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Shea butter ethyl esters, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Ceramide np, Sodium hyaluronate, Solanum lycopersicum fruit extract, Swertia chirata extract, Squalane, Punica granatum extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycine soja extract, Urea, Yeast amino acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Dimethyl isosorbide, Silica, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Silica dimethyl silylate, Butylene glycol, Lecithin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Cetyl palmitate, Laureth-23, Polysorbate 20, Trideceth-6 phosphate, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Disodium edta, Sodium hydroxide, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Ci 14700, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Citronellol, Parfum
Sources
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearate
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Antiviral activity of the Indian medicinal plant extract, Swertia chirata against herpes simplex viruses: A study by in-vitro and molecular approach
- Therapeutic Swertia chirata - An Overview
- A Review of Swertia chirayita (Gentianaceae) as a Traditional Medicinal Plant
- Extract of Punica granatum inhibits skin photoaging induced by UVB irradiation
- Topical microemulsion containing Punica granatum extract: its control over skin erythema and melanin in healthy Asian subjects
- Safety Assessment of Punica granatum -Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Cosmeceuttical Critigue: Taurine
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Contact dermatitis caused by alkyl glucosides in the modern cosmetic industry and contact dermatitis in the Canadian aircraft industry