Mesoestetic Collagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream

Mesoestetic Collagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Urea + 15 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is dramatically reduced.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea

AllantoinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~3.8–4.7%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~1.6–2%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~1.9–2.4%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.95–1.15%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.45–0.7%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.5–1.8%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.6%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
Serine, Niacinamide + 3 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is dramatically reduced.”
Source: Face the future

This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~1.6–2%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.45–0.65%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.6%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~3.1–3.8%est.
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
MethylisothiazolinoneA preservative. Is a frequent allergenHigh~0.00075–0.0015%est.
MethylchloroisothiazolinoneA preservative. Is a frequent allergen in cosmeticsHigh~0.00075–0.0015%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~1.9–2.4%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hydrogen~4.9–6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrogen
Allantoin~3.8–4.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Alcohol denat.~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Glycerin~2.5–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium lactate~1.9–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Serine~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Sorbitol~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Tea-lactate~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tea-lactate
Urea~0.95–1.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Sodium chloride~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Lauryl aminopropylglycine~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Biosaccharide gum-2~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Panthenol~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Phospholipids~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Glyceryl stearate citrate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Niacinamide~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Dimethicone~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Methylisothiazolinone~0.00075–0.0015%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Is a frequent allergen

More about Methylisothiazolinone
Methylchloroisothiazolinone~0.00075–0.0015%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Is a frequent allergen in cosmetics

More about Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Parfum~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Dipentene/l-limonene
Not recognized
Geraniol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Hydrogen, Allantoin, Alcohol denat., Glycerin, Sodium lactate, Serine, Sorbitol, Tea-lactate, Urea, Sodium chloride, Lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine, Lauryl aminopropylglycine, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopheryl acetate, Biosaccharide gum-2, Panthenol, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Centella asiatica extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Retinyl palmitate, Disodium edta, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Parfum, Bht, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Unknown, Geraniol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
MesoesteticCollagen 360 Degree Intensive CreamYOUR PRODUCTSimpleKind To Skin Replenishing Rich MoisturizerMarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body CreamISDINIsdinceutics Prevent Hyaluronic Moisture Sensitive Skin
Match—89%88%87%
Price$87.10$3.32−$83.78$21.99−$65.11$38.50−$48.60
Shared key ingredients—8 of 167 of 166 of 16
Key difference—PantolactoneFructoseHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Irritancy High Low Low Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"Mesoestetic - Collagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Mesoestetic - Collagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, urea, allantoin, glycerin and sodium lactate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, cyclopentasiloxane and glyceryl stearate citrate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.20% - 0.40%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • In addition, this moisturizer contains Allantoin (3.80% - 4.70%). Allantoin is helpful in wound-healing and can help restore the skin barrier faster. It might also be able to improve scars, but the evidence is not very strong for this.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 64.99£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
  6. 6
Mesoestetic Collagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream
MesoesteticCollagen 360 Degree Intensive Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.