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Medik8 R-Retinoate Intense
Medik8

Medik8 R-Retinoate Intense

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
26 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“With squalane and hyaluronic acid to deliver deep hydration and vitamin E to provide antioxidant protection, this night cream works to promote a smoother, younger-looking complexion delicately fragranced with notes of vanilla and citrus.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, phytosphingosine

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.65%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.45–0.7%
Copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenateHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.5–1.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%
Heptapeptide-15 palmitateHero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–2.5%
PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.1–7.4%
Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.4–0.6%
Sodium polyaspartateKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help stabilize the product formulation~0.25–0.5%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~2.4–3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
C12-16 alcohols· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.6%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.6%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–0.65%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Targets the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and blemishesAntibacterial and antioxidant ingredientsFree from alcohol, parabens, phthalates, synthetic colour and artificial fragranceCruelty-free and suitable for vegansHelps supports the skin's natural collagen Works to minimise the look of pigmentation and uneven texture UK200030067”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal, retinyl retinoate.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl retinoate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl retinoateHeroEffect: MediumA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol~0.25–0.45%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Targets the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and blemishesAntibacterial and antioxidant ingredientsFree from alcohol, parabens, phthalates, synthetic colour and artificial fragranceCruelty-free and suitable for vegansHelps supports the skin's natural collagen Works to minimise the look of pigmentation and uneven texture UK200030067”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, retinyl retinoate, heptapeptide-15 palmitate.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl retinoateHeroEffect: HighA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol~0.25–0.45%
Heptapeptide-15 palmitateKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenateKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.5%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal, retinyl retinoate. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Retinyl retinoateHeroEffect: HighA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol~0.25–0.45%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.25–0.45%
PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.6%
Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.6%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinyl retinoate.

Retinyl retinoateKey activeEffect: HighA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol~0.25–0.45%
Polylactic acidEffect: LowUsed as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliation~1.3–1.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
17 strong irritants: Retinyl retinoate, Retinal + 15 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 42 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rubus chamaemorus seed oilA berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Retinyl retinoateA "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinolHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Acacia decurrens flower extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant benefits but research on effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
PhenylpropanolHelps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulationHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.1–7.4%est.
Polylactic acidUsed as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliationMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Polyhydroxystearic acidUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
C12-16 alcoholsHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Sodium polyaspartateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polyvinyl alcoholHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.1–7.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Isododecane~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Squalane~2.1–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Dimethicone~1.5–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polylactic acid~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliation

More about Polylactic acid
Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.95–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Cyclodextrin~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin
Ppg-12/smdi copolymer~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product finish

More about Ppg-12/smdi copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Phytosterols~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols
Cholesterol~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Ceramide eop~0.4–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide eop
Ceramide np~0.35–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Ceramide ap~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ap
Cholesteryl nonanoate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cholesteryl nonanoate
Linoleic acid~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Palmitic acid~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Canola oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil
Rubus chamaemorus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating

More about Rubus chamaemorus seed oil
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Retinyl retinoate~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A "hybrid" of retinol and retinoic acid. It is more stable than retinol and is likely to be more effective based on the early research data available. Is as irritating as retinol

More about Retinyl retinoate
Retinal~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Polyhydroxystearic acid~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Polyhydroxystearic acid
Citrus limon peel oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Vanilla planifolia fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit extract
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil
Sorbitan olivate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Isostearic acid~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Isostearic acid
Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
C12-16 alcohols~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture

More about C12-16 alcohols
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract
Stearic acid~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Sodium polyaspartate~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium polyaspartate
Acacia decurrens flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant benefits but research on effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Acacia decurrens flower extract
Boswellia carterii oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Salvia sclarea oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Salvia sclarea oil
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vetiveria zizanoides root oil
Phenethyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate
Heptapeptide-15 palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Heptapeptide-15 palmitate
Phenylpropanol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Phenylpropanol
Polyvinyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Polyvinyl alcohol
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Alumina~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

The same compound that is used safely in dental implants and bone cements. In cosmetics, it is used to improve the consistency of products

More about Alumina
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ci 14700~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Isododecane, Squalane, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Polylactic acid, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Cyclodextrin, Ppg-12/smdi copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Phytosterols, Cholesterol, Sodium hyaluronate, Ceramide eop, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Cholesteryl nonanoate, Linoleic acid, Palmitic acid, Canola oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl acetate, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Pentylene glycol, Retinyl retinoate, Retinal, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Citrus limon peel oil, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Citric acid, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Sorbitan olivate, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Isostearic acid, Phytosphingosine, Zingiber officinale root extract, Lecithin, Carbomer, C12-16 alcohols, Caprylyl glycol, Cananga odorata flower oil, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Stearic acid, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Xanthan gum, Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sodium polyaspartate, Acacia decurrens flower extract, Boswellia carterii oil, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Glyceryl caprylate, Salvia sclarea oil, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Phenethyl alcohol, Disodium edta, Copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, Heptapeptide-15 palmitate, Phenylpropanol, Polyvinyl alcohol, Titanium dioxide, Alumina, Bht, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Ci 14700

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Medik8R-Retinoate IntenseYOUR PRODUCTYouth To The PeopleRetinal + Niacinamide Youth SerumSesdermaRetiage Anti-Ageing SerumSpectacle SkincarePerformance Crème
Match—65%55%54%
Price$210.00$68.00−$142.00$25.78−$184.22$100.47−$109.53
Shared key ingredients—10 of 187 of 188 of 18
Key difference—NiacinamideCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3Niacinamide
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Product summary

"Medik8 - R-Retinoate Intense" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Medik8 - R-Retinoate Intense ticks this box. Humectants in this product (heptapeptide-15 palmitate, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyaspartate and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and phytosterols) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.25% - 0.45% and retinyl retinoate 0.25% - 0.45%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.60%, ceramide ap 0.25% - 0.50%, ceramide np 0.35% - 0.65% and ceramide eop 0.40% - 0.60%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (heptapeptide-15 palmitate 0.25% - 0.45% and copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 348.48A$ in Australia, from 179.99£ up to 279.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 210.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatologydoi.org
  5. 5
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
Medik8 R-Retinoate Intense
Medik8R-Retinoate Intense
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