Koh Gen Do Oriental Plants Cream

Koh Gen Do Oriental Plants Cream

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
24 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“A rich, but non-greasy moisturizer that seals in hydration and protects skin throughout the day.”
Source: Skinstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–5%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.45–0.7%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%
Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.25–0.4%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.6–2%
Hydrogenated palm oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.1–1.3%
Octyldodecyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.9–2.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6–7.3%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.6–0.9%
Batyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol. Used to stabilize other ingredients and is an emollient~0.3–0.6%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.3–1.6%
Perilla ocymoides seed oilEffect: LowA plant extract that works as an emollient. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin but solid research is lacking. Contains some volatile compounds and could be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.2–0.35%
Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.5%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Evens skin tone
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Infused with 36 botanical extracts, the Koh Gen Do Oriental Plants Cream delivers intense moisture and hydration to improve skin tone and texture.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product contains ingredients (glycyrrhiza glabra root extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.25%
Bifida ferment lysateEffect: Low, below effective doseConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Rosa multiflora fruit extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Perilla ocymoides seed oilA plant extract that works as an emollient. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin but solid research is lacking. Contains some volatile compounds and could be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Sophora angustifolia root extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Rosa multiflora fruit extractUsed in cosmetics for its fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Paeonia suffruticosa root extract—High~0.25–0.4%est.
Citrus unshiu peel extract—High~0.25–0.4%est.
Gardenia florida fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating.High~0.2–0.4%est.
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Hibiscus esculentus fruit extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.6–2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Eriobotrya japonica leaf extractPlant extract that might be somewhat helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Luffa cylindrica fruit extractA fruit extract that might be somewhat helpful in neutrlizing free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~6–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycerin~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Octyldodecyl myristate~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Octyldodecyl myristate
Hydrogenated palm oil~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm oil
Glyceryl stearate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.6–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Pentylene glycol~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Cetyl palmitate~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Behenyl alcohol~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Triethylhexanoin~0.4–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Dimethicone~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Batyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialMoisturizing

Non-drying alcohol. Used to stabilize other ingredients and is an emollient

More about Batyl alcohol
Stearic acid~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Betula platyphylla japonica juice~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Perilla ocymoides seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that works as an emollient. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin but solid research is lacking. Contains some volatile compounds and could be irritating

More about Perilla ocymoides seed oil
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Squalane~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Lactobacillus/bean seed extract/sodium glutamate ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Lecithin~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Bifida ferment lysate~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate
Zea mays oil~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil
Sophora angustifolia root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Rosa multiflora fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used in cosmetics for its fragrance

More about Rosa multiflora fruit extract
Zizyphus jujuba fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Paeonia albiflora root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Rehmannia glutinosa root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Pueraria mirifica root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Paeonia suffruticosa root extract~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation
More about Paeonia suffruticosa root extract
Angelica acutiloba root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Citrus unshiu peel extract~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Prunus yedoensis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Saxifraga sarmentosa extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Eriobotrya japonica leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that might be somewhat helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Eriobotrya japonica leaf extract
Lactobacillus/soybean extract ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Lilium candidum bulb extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Artemisia capillaris flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Gardenia florida fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating.

More about Gardenia florida fruit extract
Hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Hydrolyzed soybean extract~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Morus alba root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Nephelium longana seed extract~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Rubus suavissimus leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Saccharomyces/caragana sinica root ferment extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritation

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Aspergillus/lactobacillus/camellia sinensis leaf ferment extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Ganoderma lucidum stem extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Rhodomyrtus tomentosa fruit extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals. It can be irritating

More about Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract
Luffa cylindrica fruit extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might be somewhat helpful in neutrlizing free radicals

More about Luffa cylindrica fruit extract
Natto gum~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Natto gum
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Octyldodecyl myristate, Hydrogenated palm oil, Glyceryl stearate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Pentylene glycol, Cetyl palmitate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Behenyl alcohol, Triethylhexanoin, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Batyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Betula platyphylla japonica juice, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Perilla ocymoides seed oil, Saccharum officinarum extract, Squalane, Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lactobacillus/bean seed extract/sodium glutamate ferment filtrate, Retinyl palmitate, Lecithin, Bifida ferment lysate, Zea mays oil, Sophora angustifolia root extract, Rosa multiflora fruit extract, Zizyphus jujuba fruit extract, Paeonia albiflora root extract, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, Pueraria mirifica root extract, Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, Angelica acutiloba root extract, Citrus unshiu peel extract, Prunus yedoensis leaf extract, Saxifraga sarmentosa extract, Eriobotrya japonica leaf extract, Lactobacillus/soybean extract ferment filtrate, Lilium candidum bulb extract, Artemisia capillaris flower extract, Gardenia florida fruit extract, Hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract, Hydrolyzed soybean extract, Morus alba root extract, Nephelium longana seed extract, Rubus suavissimus leaf extract, Saccharomyces/caragana sinica root ferment extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Aspergillus/lactobacillus/camellia sinensis leaf ferment extract, Ganoderma lucidum stem extract, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa fruit extract, Hibiscus esculentus fruit extract, Luffa cylindrica fruit extract, Natto gum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
Koh Gen Do Oriental Plants Cream
Koh Gen DoOriental Plants Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.