It Cosmetics

It Cosmetics Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer

Name: It Cosmetics - Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer
Brand: It Cosmetics

Efficacy83/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

42 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This luxurious formula quickly hydrates and plumps your skin.”

Source: It Cosmetics

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.1–0.15%

Hydrolyzed algae extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.6%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.1%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.9–3.6%

Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.1%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.1–0.2%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.1–0.15%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

Rice ferment filtrateKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.2%

Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of rice. The fermented product helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking~0.2–0.35%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.3–2.8%

Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.15–0.3%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

Sargassum fulvellum extractKey activeEffect: MediumA brown algae (sea weed) extract. It might be able to help neutralize free radicals and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%

Spirulina platensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect~0.05–0.15%

Porphyra yezoensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.2%

Dunaliella salina extractKey activeEffect: MediumA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.25%

Hypnea musciformis extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.4–1.7%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.6%

Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~4–4.8%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.35–0.65%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.25%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~5.2–6.4%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.7–1.05%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.2%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.05–0.15%

Colloidal oatmealUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.15–0.25%

Laminaria saccharina extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.1–0.2%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.1–0.2%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–0.8%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.1–0.2%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.15%

Anti-aging

13 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“What it is: A luxurious face moisturizer that reduces the look of lines and wrinkles and gives your skin a youthful glow.”

Source: Sephora CA

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

ChrysinEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.25%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.1%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.05–0.1%

Laminaria saccharina extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.1–0.2%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.1–0.2%

Evens skin tone

8 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“This luxurious face moisturizer with adenosine and our proprietary Drops of Light Technology™ is now clinically tested to reduce the look of discoloration while still delivering the same instant glowing skin effect!”

Source: It Cosmetics

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: chrysin.

ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.25%

N-hydroxysuccinimideEffect: LowIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn enzyme-based exfoliant~0.05–0.1%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.05–0.1%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 18 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (chrysin, haematococcus pluvialis extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Haematococcus pluvialis extractKey activeEffect: MediumGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin~0.15–0.25%

Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.15–0.3%

Rice ferment filtrateEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%

Porphyra yezoensis extractEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.2%

Sargassum fulvellum extractEffect: LowA brown algae (sea weed) extract. It might be able to help neutralize free radicals and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%

Spirulina platensis extractEffect: LowAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect~0.05–0.15%

Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

Dunaliella salina extractEffect: LowA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.25%

Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrateEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of rice. The fermented product helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.15%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%

Colloidal oatmealEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.15–0.25%

Panax ginseng root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Parfum, Retinyl palmitate — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

N-hydroxysuccinimideIs claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~4–4.8%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.3–2.8%est.

Tribehenin peg-20 estersHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.8–2.2%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.4–1.7%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Haematococcus pluvialis extractGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthinMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

ChrysinMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Chlorhexidine digluconateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

17 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

17 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.1–0.15%est.

Chlorella minutissima extract—3/5~0.05–0.1%est.

Spirulina platensis extractAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect3/5~0.05–0.15%est.

Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Laminaria saccharina extractA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Macrocystis pyrifera extract—3/5~0.1–0.15%est.

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Hydrolyzed algae extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Porphyra yezoensis extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Ecklonia cava extract—3/5~0.1–0.25%est.

Enteromorpha compressa extract—3/5~0.15–0.25%est.

Hypnea musciformis extractMight help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.1–0.15%est.

Chlorella ferment—2/5~0.1–0.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butylene glycol~5.2–6.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cetyl ethylhexanoate~4–4.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate

Glycerin~2.9–3.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.3–2.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Tribehenin peg-20 esters~1.8–2.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Tribehenin peg-20 esters

Olea europaea fruit oil~1.4–1.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~1.3–1.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Glyceryl stearate~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Palmitic acid~0.7–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Stearic acid~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Dimethicone~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Isohexadecane~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Tromethamine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Polysorbate 80~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sorbitan oleate~0.1–0.15%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Parfum~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Myristic acid~0.1–0.2%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Squalane~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ascorbic acid~0.05–0.1%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Colloidal oatmeal~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Colloidal oatmeal

Cholesteryl oleyl carbonate~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cholesteryl oleyl carbonate

Niacinamide~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliation

An enzyme-based exfoliant

More about Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.1–0.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract

Lactobacillus/dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lactobacillus/dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Panax ginseng root extract~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract

Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Cholesteryl nonanoate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cholesteryl nonanoate

Cholesteryl isostearate~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cholesteryl isostearate

Cholesteryl chloride~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cholesteryl chloride

Saccharum officinarum extract~0.05–0.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract

Cocos nucifera fruit extract~0.1–0.15%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract

Curcuma longa root extract~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract

Vegetable oil~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil

Sophora japonica flower extract~0.05–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sophora japonica flower extract

Aspergillus/saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aspergillus/saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Retinyl palmitate~0.05–0.1%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

1,2-hexanediol~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Steareth-20~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Hizikia fusiforme extract~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hizikia fusiforme extract

Chlorella minutissima extract~0.05–0.1%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Chlorella minutissima extract

Spirulina platensis extract~0.05–0.15%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Spirulina platensis extract

Codium fragile extract~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Codium fragile extract

Ulva lactuca extract~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ulva lactuca extract

Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.1–0.2%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Fucus vesiculosus extract

Laminaria saccharina extract~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations

More about Laminaria saccharina extract

Gelidium cartilagineum extract~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Gelidium cartilagineum extract

Macrocystis pyrifera extract~0.1–0.15%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Macrocystis pyrifera extract

Laminaria digitata extract~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Lactobacillus/algae extract ferment~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lactobacillus/algae extract ferment

Codium tomentosum extract~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Codium tomentosum extract

Sargassum muticum extract~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sargassum muticum extract

Pikea robusta extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pikea robusta extract

Algae extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Agarum cribrosum extract~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Agarum cribrosum extract

Hydrolyzed algae extract~0.1–0.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed algae extract

Laminaria japonica extract~0.1–0.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract

Hydrolyzed ulva lactuca extract~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed ulva lactuca extract

Porphyra yezoensis extract~0.1–0.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Porphyra yezoensis extract

Chlorella ferment~0.1–0.2%

Comedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

More about Chlorella ferment

Ecklonia cava extract~0.1–0.25%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Ecklonia cava extract

Enteromorpha compressa extract~0.15–0.25%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Enteromorpha compressa extract

Haematococcus pluvialis extract~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin

More about Haematococcus pluvialis extract

Dunaliella salina extract~0.1–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Dunaliella salina extract

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Laminaria cloustoni extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Laminaria cloustoni extract

Sargassum fulvellum extract~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A brown algae (sea weed) extract. It might be able to help neutralize free radicals and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Sargassum fulvellum extract

Salicornia herbacea extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Salicornia herbacea extract

Hypnea musciformis extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hypnea musciformis extract

Jania rubens extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Jania rubens extract

Citric acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Aspergillus/rice ferment extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aspergillus/rice ferment extract

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Rice ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Rice ferment filtrate

N-hydroxysuccinimide~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin tone

Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating

More about N-hydroxysuccinimide

Chamomilla recutita flower water~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Chamomilla recutita flower water

Lactobacillus/centella asiatica/gleditsia sinensis thorn/houttuynia cordata extract/phellodendron amurense bark/polygonum cuspidatum root/prunella vulgaris/torilis japonica extract ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lactobacillus/centella asiatica/gleditsia sinensis thorn/houttuynia cordata extract/phellodendron amurense bark/polygonum cuspidatum root/prunella vulgaris/torilis japonica extract ferment filtrate

Phaseolus angularis seed extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phaseolus angularis seed extract

Saccharomyces/camellia sinensis extract ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Saccharomyces/camellia sinensis extract ferment filtrate

Lactobacillus ferment~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment

Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of rice. The fermented product helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking

More about Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrate

Bacillus/cordyceps sinensis/ganoderma lucidum/inonotus obliquus/lentinus edodes/phellinus linteus/schizophyllum commune/tricholoma matsutake extract ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bacillus/cordyceps sinensis/ganoderma lucidum/inonotus obliquus/lentinus edodes/phellinus linteus/schizophyllum commune/tricholoma matsutake extract ferment filtrate

Carbomer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Algae oligosaccharides~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Algae oligosaccharides

Macrocystis pyrifera protein~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Macrocystis pyrifera protein

Diamond powder~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Does not have known skin benefits. Might help create an optical illusion of smoother skin

More about Diamond powder

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide

Chrysin~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin

More about Chrysin

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Chlorhexidine digluconate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorhexidine digluconate

Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Olea europaea fruit oil, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Glyceryl stearate, Palmitic acid, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Chlorphenesin, Tromethamine, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbitan oleate, Parfum, Disodium edta, Myristic acid, Squalane, Ascorbic acid, Colloidal oatmeal, Cholesteryl oleyl carbonate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Lactobacillus/dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Panax ginseng root extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Cholesteryl nonanoate, Cholesteryl isostearate, Cholesteryl chloride, Saccharum officinarum extract, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Vegetable oil, Sophora japonica flower extract, Aspergillus/saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Retinyl palmitate, 1,2-hexanediol, Steareth-20, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Hizikia fusiforme extract, Chlorella minutissima extract, Spirulina platensis extract, Codium fragile extract, Ulva lactuca extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Laminaria saccharina extract, Gelidium cartilagineum extract, Macrocystis pyrifera extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Lactobacillus/algae extract ferment, Codium tomentosum extract, Sargassum muticum extract, Pikea robusta extract, Algae extract, Agarum cribrosum extract, Hydrolyzed algae extract, Laminaria japonica extract, Hydrolyzed ulva lactuca extract, Porphyra yezoensis extract, Chlorella ferment, Ecklonia cava extract, Enteromorpha compressa extract, Haematococcus pluvialis extract, Dunaliella salina extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Laminaria cloustoni extract, Sargassum fulvellum extract, Salicornia herbacea extract, Hypnea musciformis extract, Jania rubens extract, Citric acid, Aspergillus/rice ferment extract, Polysorbate 20, Rice ferment filtrate, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Chamomilla recutita flower water, Lactobacillus/centella asiatica/gleditsia sinensis thorn/houttuynia cordata extract/phellodendron amurense bark/polygonum cuspidatum root/prunella vulgaris/torilis japonica extract ferment filtrate, Phaseolus angularis seed extract, Saccharomyces/camellia sinensis extract ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus ferment, Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrate, Bacillus/cordyceps sinensis/ganoderma lucidum/inonotus obliquus/lentinus edodes/phellinus linteus/schizophyllum commune/tricholoma matsutake extract ferment filtrate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed collagen, Algae oligosaccharides, Macrocystis pyrifera protein, Diamond powder, Potassium sorbate, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Chrysin, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Chlorhexidine digluconate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	It CosmeticsSecret Sauce Anti-Aging MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCT	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream	MEDI-PEELCica Antio Cream 30ml
Match	—	52%	50%
Price	$10.00	$39.59+$29.59	$31.07+$21.07
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 24	9 of 24
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "It Cosmetics - Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. It Cosmetics - Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, algae extract, glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract and hydrolyzed collagen) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, algae extract, cocos nucifera fruit extract, hydrolyzed collagen and caprylic/capric triglyceride) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.10%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.05% - 0.10%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25%, palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.15% - 0.30% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.15% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide, laminaria saccharina extract, colloidal oatmeal, vitamin c, vitamin e and stearic acid

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "It Cosmetics" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 82.00$ in the United States and for 90.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 34 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
3
Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
4
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
5
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
6
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
7
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Mechanism of action and clinical benefits of colloidal oatmeal for dermatologic practicencbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
14
Ginseng in Dermatology: A Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
18
Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
20
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Spirulina for Skin Care: A Bright Blue Futuremdpi.com
22
Safety Assessment of Brown Algae-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
23
The effect of laminaria saccharina extract on suppressing pigmentation in in-vitro systemjaad.org
24
Effective Inhibition of Skin Cancer, Tyrosinase, and Antioxidative Properties by Astaxanthin and Astaxanthin Esters from the Green Alga Haematococcus pluvialispubs.acs.org
25
Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of Toxicity and Efficacy of A New Astaxanthin-rich Haematococcus pluvialis Extractjstage.jst.go.jp
26
Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Dunaliella salina alga extract inhibits the production of interleukin-6, nitric oxide, and reactive oxygen species by regulating nuclear factor-κB/Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription in virus-infected RAW264.7 cellssciencedirect.com
28
Biochemical composition and bioactivity screening of various extracts from Dunaliella salina, a green microalgancbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoagingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face studyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
32
Anti-photoageing and anti-melanogenesis activities of chrysinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Chrysin Protects Epidermal Keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-Induced Damagepubs.acs.org
34
Inhibition of melanogenesis by 5,7-dihydroxyflavone (chrysin) via blocking adenylyl cyclase activitysciencedirect.com

It CosmeticsSecret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer

Buy at It Cosmetics$85.00 $85.00as of 10/9 21:45 GMT

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Buy at It Cosmetics$85.00 $85.00as of 10/9 21:45 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.