Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 17
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "It Cosmetics - Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. It Cosmetics - Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, algae extract, glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract and hydrolyzed collagen) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, algae extract, cocos nucifera fruit extract, hydrolyzed collagen and caprylic/capric triglyceride) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.10%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.05% - 0.10%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25%, palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.15% - 0.30% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.15% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "It Cosmetics" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.
Price
The product retails for 82.00$ in the United States and for 90.00CA$ in Canada.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect
Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of rice. The fermented product helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A brown algae (sea weed) extract. It might be able to help neutralize free radicals and attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
An algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin
Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation
A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Secret Sauce Anti-Aging Moisturizer
Source: From product name
This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (chrysin, haematococcus pluvialis extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin
Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin
A brown algae (sea weed) extract. It might be able to help neutralize free radicals and attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties
A green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
An algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of rice. The fermented product helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: chrysin.
Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin
Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An enzyme-based exfoliant
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Butylene glycol, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Olea europaea fruit oil, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Glyceryl stearate, Palmitic acid, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Chlorphenesin, Tromethamine, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbitan oleate, Parfum, Disodium edta, Myristic acid, Squalane, Ascorbic acid, Colloidal oatmeal, Cholesteryl oleyl carbonate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/pumpkin ferment extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Lactobacillus/dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Panax ginseng root extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Cholesteryl nonanoate, Cholesteryl isostearate, Cholesteryl chloride, Saccharum officinarum extract, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Vegetable oil, Sophora japonica flower extract, Aspergillus/saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Retinyl palmitate, 1,2-hexanediol, Steareth-20, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Hizikia fusiforme extract, Chlorella minutissima extract, Spirulina platensis extract, Codium fragile extract, Ulva lactuca extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Laminaria saccharina extract, Gelidium cartilagineum extract, Macrocystis pyrifera extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Lactobacillus/algae extract ferment, Codium tomentosum extract, Sargassum muticum extract, Pikea robusta extract, Algae extract, Agarum cribrosum extract, Hydrolyzed algae extract, Laminaria japonica extract, Hydrolyzed ulva lactuca extract, Porphyra yezoensis extract, Chlorella ferment, Ecklonia cava extract, Enteromorpha compressa extract, Haematococcus pluvialis extract, Dunaliella salina extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Laminaria cloustoni extract, Sargassum fulvellum extract, Salicornia herbacea extract, Hypnea musciformis extract, Jania rubens extract, Citric acid, Aspergillus/rice ferment extract, Polysorbate 20, Rice ferment filtrate, N-hydroxysuccinimide, Chamomilla recutita flower water, Lactobacillus/centella asiatica/gleditsia sinensis thorn/houttuynia cordata extract/phellodendron amurense bark/polygonum cuspidatum root/prunella vulgaris/torilis japonica extract ferment filtrate, Phaseolus angularis seed extract, Saccharomyces/camellia sinensis extract ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus ferment, Lactobacillus/rice ferment filtrate, Bacillus/cordyceps sinensis/ganoderma lucidum/inonotus obliquus/lentinus edodes/phellinus linteus/schizophyllum commune/tricholoma matsutake extract ferment filtrate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed collagen, Algae oligosaccharides, Macrocystis pyrifera protein, Diamond powder, Potassium sorbate, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Chrysin, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Chlorhexidine digluconate
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