What's In My Jar
IOPE Expert Retinol Serum Hydrogel Mask
IOPE

IOPE Expert Retinol Serum Hydrogel Mask

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 20 more
Works well
What the product description says
“- Hyaluronic Acid: Helps skin retain moisture.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, chondrus crispus extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~1.7–2%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.2–1.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1–1.2%
Ethylhexyl olivateKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.5%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Key active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~3.1–3.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.75%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Pyrus communis fruit extract· HumectantEffect: LowCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 4 more
Works well
What the product description says
“- Retinol RX: Visibly firms skin and refines the look of pores and wrinkles with less irritation.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1–1.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1–1.2%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Coptis japonica root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%
Cucumis melo fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Retinol + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Sorbitan sesquioleate, Rosa damascena flower water + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sorbitan sesquioleateUsed to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Coptis japonica root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.05%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~3.1–3.8%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Ceratonia siliqua gumUsed to stabilize product formulations and create thicker consistencyMedium~1.5–1.9%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Pyrus communis fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~1.7–2%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1–1.2%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.35–0.65%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.3–0.5%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dipropylene glycol~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Cetyl ethylhexanoate~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate
Niacinamide~2.3–2.8%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
1,2-hexanediol~0.8–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Chondrus crispus extract~1.7–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Ceratonia siliqua gum~1.5–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulations and create thicker consistency

More about Ceratonia siliqua gum
Betaine~1.2–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1–1.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Cellulose gum~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Ethylhexyl olivate~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl olivate
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Polyacrylate-13~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Polyacrylate-13
Butylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Sorbitan sesquioleate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Sorbitan sesquioleate
Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Carrageenan~0.35–0.65%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Polyglyceryl-4 oleate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 oleate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin
Pyrus communis fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus communis fruit extract
Glucomannan~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glucomannan
Polyglyceryl-10 laurate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-10 laurate
Adenosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Trehalose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Rosa damascena flower water~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Potassium chloride~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Potassium chloride
Sodium phytate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)
Iris florentina root extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Iris florentina root extract
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Cucumis melo fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Cucumis melo fruit extract
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.3–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Hedera helix leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hedera helix leaf/stem extract
Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate
Sorbitan isostearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Coptis japonica root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Coptis japonica root extract
Pentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Collagen extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Collagen extract
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.05%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Retinol~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ectoin~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Carbomer~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium dna~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium dna
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Acacia senegal gum~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Propylene glycol alginate~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Propylene glycol alginate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene glycol, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, Chondrus crispus extract, Ceratonia siliqua gum, Betaine, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cellulose gum, Ethylhexyl olivate, Xanthan gum, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Carrageenan, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pyrus communis fruit extract, Glucomannan, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Adenosine, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Trehalose, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Rosa damascena flower water, Glycine soja oil, Potassium chloride, Sodium phytate, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Iris florentina root extract, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Hedera helix leaf/stem extract, Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate, Sorbitan isostearate, Coptis japonica root extract, Pentylene glycol, Collagen extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Citric acid, Ectoin, Sodium hyaluronate, Carbomer, Sodium dna, Bht, Tocopherol, Acacia senegal gum, Propylene glycol alginate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
IOPEExpert Retinol Serum Hydrogel MaskYOUR PRODUCTinnisfreeSerum-Infused Sheet Mask - Green Tea PDRN™ FirmingROUND LABCamellia Deep Collagen Firming Gel MaskKEEP COOLSoothe Sheet Mask
Match—87%84%75%
Price$30.00$10.00−$20.00$2.71−$27.29—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 139 of 134 of 13
Key difference—Nonapeptide-1PanthenolCeramide Np
Irritancy High High Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop
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Product summary

"IOPE - Expert Retinol Serum Hydrogel Mask" is effective for: Anti-aging, Anti-blemish, Moisturizing, Exfoliation and Evens skin tone

Ingredient callouts

  • A good concentration of Niacinamide (2.30% - 2.80%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • This product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.40% and hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.05% - 0.05%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
  • Humectants (sodium hyaluronate 0.20% - 0.35%, trehalose 0.25% - 0.45%, betaine 1.20% - 1.40% and glycerin 4.60% - 5.60%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    On the Safety Assessment of Galactomannans As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Sorbitan sesquioleate, a common emulsifier in topical corticosteroids, is an important contact allergenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
IOPE Expert Retinol Serum Hydrogel Mask
IOPEExpert Retinol Serum Hydrogel Mask
Buy at Sephora$30.00$7.00as of 11/7 12:09 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Sephora$30.00$7.00as of 11/7 12:09 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.