Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Pure System Pure Control Care Cream

Name: Institut Esthederm - Pure System Pure Control Care Cream
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy58/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“Institut Esthederm Pure System Pure Control Care Cream 50ml is a purity , matte care, developed to normalize sebum while preserving the skin's youthful appearance.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product contains carnosine, creatine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%

Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.9–2.3%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“Imperfections appear diminished and the complexion more even.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product contains ingredients (zinc gluconate) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“In addition, salicylic acid gently exfoliates and promotes the elimination of impurities.Its non-greasy texture is non-sticky. The skin appears purer and mattified.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product might help exfoliate the skin with zinc gluconate, but This ingredient is not the most effective.

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine, ginkgo biloba leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.1–0.2%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Pyridoxine hclEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.65%

Moisturizing

Not advertised by the brand · 20 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

Zinc gluconateKey activeEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.9–2.3%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.3–6.4%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.3–1.6%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.3–0.5%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2.5–3.1%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.45–0.65%

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–0.85%

Dibutyl adipate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~1–1.3%

Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~1.7–2.1%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.6%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.8%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.5–0.75%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Fomes officinalis extractA fungus extract that can help to create a temporary tightening feeling on the skinHigh~0.7–1.05%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.25–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~1.9–2.3%est.

Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Pyridoxine hclMight help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Propyl gallateHelps preserve product formulations and can mask the smell of other ingredients in a productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.3–6.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Corn starch modified~4.5–5.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product formulation

More about Corn starch modified

Dipropylene glycol~2.9–3.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Isononyl isononanoate~2.5–3.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Zinc gluconate~1.9–2.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate

Arachidyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol

Butylene glycol~1.4–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cetyl alcohol~1.3–1.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Dibutyl adipate~1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Dibutyl adipate

Fomes officinalis extract~0.7–1.05%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fungus extract that can help to create a temporary tightening feeling on the skin

More about Fomes officinalis extract

Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer

Glyceryl stearate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Behenyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Hydrogenated polydecene~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Pentylene glycol~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Arachidyl glucoside~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Phospholipids~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate

1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Creatine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine

Salicylic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Candida bombicola/glucose/methyl rapeseedate ferment~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together and preserve the product formulation

More about Candida bombicola/glucose/methyl rapeseedate ferment

Parfum~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Pyridoxine hcl~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Pyridoxine hcl

Aminoethanesulfinic acid~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aminoethanesulfinic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Propyl gallate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps preserve product formulations and can mask the smell of other ingredients in a product

More about Propyl gallate

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Carnosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Superoxide dismutase~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Tromethamine~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Corn starch modified, Dipropylene glycol, Isononyl isononanoate, Zinc gluconate, Arachidyl alcohol, Butylene glycol, Cetyl alcohol, Dibutyl adipate, Fomes officinalis extract, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Tocopheryl acetate, Behenyl alcohol, Hydrogenated polydecene, Pentylene glycol, Arachidyl glucoside, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Creatine, Salicylic acid, Candida bombicola/glucose/methyl rapeseedate ferment, Parfum, Sodium metabisulfite, Propylene glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Pyridoxine hcl, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Propyl gallate, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Potassium sorbate, Laminaria digitata extract, Superoxide dismutase, Tromethamine

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Cocoon Center

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Institut EsthedermPure System Pure Control Care CreamYOUR PRODUCT	CeraVePsoriasis Moisturizing Cream	BiodermaSebium Pore Tightener Cream	e.l.f. CosmeticsBlemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream
Match	—	83%	82%	82%
Price	$50.59	—	$15.36−$35.23	—
Shared key ingredients	—	3 of 9	3 of 9	3 of 9
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	Mineral Oil	Niacinamide
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
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