e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream

e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Supercharged with blemish-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and zinc pca to help clarify clogged pores and help keep skin clear blemishes, plus soothing niacinamide, nacetyl glucosamine, and tranexamic acid to hydrate, and even out skin tone, this cream belongs in your next haul.”
Source: Beauty Bay

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, isododecane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.9–1.1%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~1.6–2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.8%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.9–2.4%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~1.2–1.4%
Capryloyl glycineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.8%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Anti-blemish
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream”
From product name

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.6%
Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.55–0.85%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Supercharged with blemish-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and zinc pca to help clarify clogged pores and help keep skin clear blemishes, plus soothing niacinamide, nacetyl glucosamine, and tranexamic acid to hydrate, and even out skin tone, this cream belongs in your next haul.”
Source: Beauty Bay

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide, salicylic acid, tranexamic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.9–1.1%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.6%
Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~1.6–2%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.55–0.85%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.9–1.1%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.4–6.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.55–0.85%
Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: MediumAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.9–1.1%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
8 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 8 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.55–0.85%est.
Aluminum starch octenylsuccinateUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.55–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Niacinamide~5.4–6.6%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Silica~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Propanediol~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Isododecane~1.9–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Tranexamic acid~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally

More about Tranexamic acid
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~1.2–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Acetyl glucosamine~0.9–1.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine
Tromethamine~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Salicylic acid~0.55–0.85%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl alcohol~0.55–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Capryloyl glycine~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Capryloyl glycine
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Allantoin~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Caprylic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Caprylic acid
Sodium citrate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Chromium oxide greens~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Ci 77288~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77288
Iron oxides~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77492~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant. Usually well-tolerated

More about Ci 77492
Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Silica, Propanediol, Isododecane, Tranexamic acid, Glyceryl stearate citrate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Acetyl glucosamine, Tromethamine, Salicylic acid, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl alcohol, Capryloyl glycine, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Allantoin, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Disodium edta, Caprylic acid, Sodium citrate, Chromium oxide greens, Ci 77288, Iron oxides, Ci 77492

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
e.l.f. CosmeticsBlemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water CreamYOUR PRODUCTCeraVePsoriasis Moisturizing CreamPaula's choiceInvisible Finish Moisture GelSonya DakarSuper Clear
Match—74%70%70%
Price——$42.00$55.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 82 of 82 of 8
Key difference—Ceramide ApOatmeal ExtractGluconolactone
Irritancy Low Low Low High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"e. L. F. Cosmetics - Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (acetyl glucosamine, glycerin and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Helianthus annuus seed oil, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetearyl alcohol, isododecane and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 5.40% - 6.60%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

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e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream
e.l.f. CosmeticsBlemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream

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