Formal Bee

Propolis Vita C Honey Butter Cream

Name: Formal Bee - Propolis Vita C Honey Butter Cream
Brand: Formal Bee

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Formal Bee - Propolis Vita C Honey Butter Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Formal Bee - Propolis Vita C Honey Butter Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (arginine, glycerin, honey extract, royal jelly extract and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, phytosphingosine and cholesterol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide eop 0.15% - 0.25%, ceramide ap 0.10% - 0.15%, ceramide as 0.15% - 0.25%, phytosphingosine 0.20% - 0.40%, ceramide ns 0.20% - 0.40% and ceramide np 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Adenosine 0.25% - 0.50%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamin e, allantoin, butyrospermum parkii butter and stearic acid

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 19.92$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

19 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, beeswax.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide as, ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, niacinamide, phytosphingosine

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.8%

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

CERAMIDE NPRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

CERAMIDE APRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.15%

CERAMIDE ASRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

CERAMIDE EOPRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

CERAMIDE NSRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

PHYTOSPHINGOSINERole: Key activeA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.2–0.4%

ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.5%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

CHOLESTEROLRole: Key activeAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.2–0.35%

CYCLOPENTASILOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.6–0.9%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.65–1%

BEESWAXRole: Key activeForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.8–1.2%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Under-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–0.7%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.1–5.1%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.3–1.5%

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%

Anti-blemish

NIACINAMIDE at ~1.4–1.8% + 2 more curated actives

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

PHYTOSPHINGOSINERole: Key activeA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.2–0.4%

ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Evens skin tone

NIACINAMIDE at ~1.4–1.8% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Propolis extractRole: Key activeA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~3.5–4.3%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.1–5.1%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.3–1.5%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Role: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1–1.2%

BeeswaxRole: Key activeForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.8–1.2%

DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.65–1%

CyclopentasiloxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.6–0.9%

Helianthus annuus seed oilRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%

Honey extractRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Royal jelly extractRole: Key activeA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.3–0.5%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.5%

AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Ceramide npRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

Ceramide nsRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

CholesterolRole: Key activeAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.2–0.35%

PhytosphingosineRole: Key activeA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.2–0.4%

Ceramide asRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

Ceramide apRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.15%

Ceramide eopRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

Irritancy

11 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~3.5–4.3%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~4.1–5.1%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesLow~0.3–0.6%est.

Honey extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsLow~0.3–0.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CLow~0.25–0.45%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

Butyrospermum parkii butter ~0.45–0.7% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~2.4–2.9%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels