Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
"Dr. Denese - Retinol RX Tightening RetinMax Night Cream" is effective for: Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish
Ingredient callouts
- this product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.10% - 0.25%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
- Ceramides (ceramide ng 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
- Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.30%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.30% - 0.50% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- Adenosine 0.25% - 0.50%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
- Humectants (arginine 0.25% - 0.50%, sodium hyaluronate 0.40% - 0.60%, soluble collagen 0.45% - 0.65% and glycerin 3.00% - 3.60%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Anti-aging
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, adenosine, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: pantothenic acid
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, beeswax.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin
A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
An anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
The formula is supported with a natural Fruit Enzyme Complex (9 enzymes) to prep and exfoliate the skin, using pomegranate, starfruit, passionfruit, kiwi, mangosteen, pineapple, lychee, Indian jujube, and guava.
Source: Dr. Denese
This product might help exfoliate the skin with hydroxypinacolone retinoate, but This ingredient is not the most effective.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 50/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Dr. Denese Retinol RX Tightening RetinMax Night Cream | Current | $69.00 | |
 Keys Soulcare Truly Becoming Multi-Benefit Peptide Serum for Fine Lines and Wrinkles | 52% | - |
Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
Potential irritants
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Comedogenic ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Used to create a thicker product consistency
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Squalane, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Dimethyl isosorbide, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, Cetearyl alcohol, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl methicone, Soluble collagen, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Butylene glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide ng, Peg-10 phytosterol, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Adenosine, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Unknown, Phospholipids, Retinyl palmitate, Pantothenic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Bisabolol, Zingiber officinale root extract, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Unknown, Potassium benzoate, Tribehenin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Beeswax, Peg-40 stearate, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pantothenic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Arginine, Polyacrylamide, Unknown, Laureth-7, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Tribehenin, Dimethiconol, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmetics
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuring
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent model
- Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CROSSLINKED HYALURONIC ACID (HA) IN COMBINATION WITH A LOW-MOLECULAR HA AND/OR AN AGENT STIMULATING ENDOGENOUS HA SYNTHESIS
- Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter