Name: Dr. Denese - Retinol RX Tightening RetinMax Night Cream
Brand: Dr. Denese

What can the product work for?

Works for

Anti-blemish
Anti-aging
Evens skin tone
Moisturizing

Does not work for

Exfoliation

Anti-blemish

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: pantothenic acid

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

pantothenic acid 0.25% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and may help reduce inflammation in skin

niacinamide 0.3% - 0.55%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

Anti-aging

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, adenosine, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.25% - 0.45%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

adenosine 0.25% - 0.4%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

Evens skin tone

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

niacinamide 0.3% - 0.55%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate 0.55% - 0.8%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

Moisturizing

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, beeswax.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

dimethicone 0.55% - 0.85%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate 0.35% - 0.65%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.3% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

Exfoliation

What does the product description say?

The formula is supported with a natural Fruit Enzyme Complex (9 enzymes) to prep and exfoliate the skin, using pomegranate, starfruit, passionfruit, kiwi, mangosteen, pineapple, lychee, Indian jujube, and guava.

Source: Dr. Denese

This product might help exfoliate the skin with hydroxypinacolone retinoate, but This ingredient is not the most effective.

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

Honesty check

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Can it cause trouble?

Overall product irritation risk
Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3

Potential irritants

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Anti-aging, Exfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-blemish, Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

Comodogenic ingredients

butyrospermum parkii butter 4.3% - 5.2%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Works for: Moisturizing, Anti-aging, Anti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

theobroma cacao seed butter 1.9% - 2.3%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Works for: Moisturizing, Anti-oxidation, Anti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

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Ingredients & concentrations

All ingredients

Key Actives

niacinamide 0.3% - 0.55%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-blemish, Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone, Reduces irritation, Reduces redness, Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% - 0.25%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Anti-aging, Exfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

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