Dermalogica

our hydration heroes - each

Name: Dermalogica - our hydration heroes - each
Brand: Dermalogica

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredient list, "Dermalogica - our hydration heroes - each" can work well for skin moisturization.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Dermalogica - our hydration heroes - each" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dermalogica - our hydration heroes - each ticks this box. Humectants in this product (urea, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid and betaine) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Jojoba esters, phytosterols, arginine, dimethicone and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

35 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

LACTIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

PANTHENOLRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.35–0.65%

UREARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.3%

BETAINERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.25%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Under-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.2–0.4%

CORALLINA OFFICINALIS EXTRACTRole: Key activeRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.35%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.2–0.4%

DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATERole: Under-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%

ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYSTEARATERole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it~0.2–0.35%

GLUCONIC ACIDRole: Key activeA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.2–0.35%

GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.7–1.05%

HISTIDINERole: Key active~0.15–0.25%

HYDROLYZED JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

HYDROLYZED SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%

HYDROXYETHYL UREARole: Key activeA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.15–0.3%

ISOLEUCINERole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.3%

JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.5%

PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.3%

PHYTOSTEROLSRole: Key activeLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%

RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OILRole: Key activeA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.2–0.4%

SACCHARIDE ISOMERATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

SACCHAROMYCES/XYLINUM/BLACK TEA FERMENTRole: Key activeA fermented sweet black tea. There is no studies on particular benefits of this ingredient in skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, and might have some anti-oxidant effect. It is used in skincare for mostly marketing purposes because of the popularity of kombucha drinks~0.2–0.35%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

SODIUM LACTATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.3%

SODIUM PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.3%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%

TREHALOSERole: Key activeA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.55–0.8%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~3.1–3.7%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

BACILLUS FERMENTRole: Key activeA product of bacterial fermentation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Exfoliation

4 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconic acid, hydroxyethyl urea.

Anti-oxidation

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (gluconic acid, vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

CORALLINA OFFICINALIS EXTRACTRole: Key activeRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.35%

SAMBUCUS NIGRA FLOWER EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.1–0.2%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%

VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

GLUCONIC ACID at ~0.2–0.4% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains gluconic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: aspartic acid, serine, threonine, vitis vinifera seed extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Irritancy

79 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 79 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~2.1–2.6%est.

Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~1.8–2.2%est.

Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~1.4–1.8%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~1.2–1.5%est.

Cymbopogon winterianus herb oil—High~1–1.2%est.

Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.65%est.

Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Hedera helix extractA plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Malva sylvestris flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Sambucus nigra flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.1–0.25%est.

Hedera helix extractA plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effectHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Malva sylvestris flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Sambucus nigra flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower extractUsed as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Aloe barbadensis flower extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extractUsed as a fragrance. Canbe irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

PhenylpropanolHelps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulationHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Isopropyl alcoholA drying alcohol. Can increase skin's sensitivity and cause dryness and irritationHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~4.1–5.1%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.15–0.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.15–0.3%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.15–0.3%est.

PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.15–0.3%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.15–0.3%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicLow~0.3–0.55%est.

BhtA preservativeLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Coccinia indica fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skinLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Solanum melongena fruit extractEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effectLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Tremella fuciformis extractA mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.55%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.45–0.7%est.

Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.5–0.7%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.5%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Low~0.25–0.45%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Calcium alginateHelps to improve the product textureLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionLow~0.3–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Gluconic acidA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in imporved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLow~0.2–0.4%est.

PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeLow~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Spirulina maxima extract—High~0.2–0.4%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~0.2–0.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

our hydration heroes - each

Product summary

Irritation risk

About the brand

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

What users say

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