Ddf

Ddf Pro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer

Name: Ddf - Pro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer
Brand: Ddf

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

Niacinamide, Retinyl propionate + 5 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Dr. Sobel's multi-tasking formula, rich in skin revitalizing ingredients, helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles, increase cell turnover for new healthy skin cells to surface and re-texturize skin for a more youthful appearance.”

Source: Ulta

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl propionate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.1–5%

Retinyl propionateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde~0.8–1.2%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: LowA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.15–0.25%

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.1–0.15%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.1–0.2%

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil + 29 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Pro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.2–0.4%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.2–0.4%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5–6.1%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.25–0.45%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.1–5%

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~1.9–2.4%

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.15–0.3%

Magnesium aspartateKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.25%

Methyl gluceth-20Key active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it~0.65–1%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.3–2.9%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.45–0.65%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.45–0.65%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.4–0.6%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.7%

C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.25–0.45%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~2.9–3.6%

Isopropyl isostearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.4–1.8%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.1–0.15%

Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.1–0.2%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.65%

Isononyl isononanoateEffect: Low, below effective doseForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~0.2–0.4%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.55%

CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.25–0.45%

Evens skin tone

Niacinamide, Retinyl propionate + 3 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl propionate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil + 7 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.3–0.55%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.2–0.4%

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.4%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Retinyl propionate + 5 more

Good evidence

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl propionate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Retinyl propionate

Medium risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Retinyl propionateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehydeHigh~0.8–1.2%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~1.9–2.4%est.

Isopropyl isostearateAn emollient that helps soften the skin3/5~1.4–1.8%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~5–6.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Niacinamide~4.1–5%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Isohexadecane~2.9–3.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.3–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Ethylhexyl palmitate~1.9–2.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Dimethicone~1.7–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Isopropyl isostearate~1.4–1.8%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Isopropyl isostearate

Polyacrylamide~1.2–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide

Retinyl propionate~0.8–1.2%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde

More about Retinyl propionate

Methyl gluceth-20~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it

More about Methyl gluceth-20

Propylene glycol~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Stearyl alcohol~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Cetyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Behenyl alcohol~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil

Corn starch modified~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product formulation

More about Corn starch modified

Panthenol~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Polyethylene~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product's texture

More about Polyethylene

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Isononyl isononanoate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

C13-14 isoparaffin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin

Dimethiconol~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Cetearyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Cetearyl glucoside~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Peg-100 stearate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Allantoin~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Ethylhexyl salicylate~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Oenothera biennis oil~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Laureth-7~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7

Stearic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Ascorbic acid~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Squalane~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Magnesium aspartate~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin

More about Magnesium aspartate

Zinc gluconate~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate

Copper gluconate~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Isopropyl isostearate, Polyacrylamide, Retinyl propionate, Methyl gluceth-20, Propylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl stearate, Cetyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Corn starch modified, Panthenol, Polyethylene, Tocopheryl acetate, Isononyl isononanoate, Benzyl alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, Dimethiconol, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Sodium benzoate, Peg-100 stearate, Titanium dioxide, Allantoin, Borago officinalis seed oil, Disodium edta, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Oenothera biennis oil, Tocopherol, Laureth-7, Stearic acid, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Sodium hyaluronate, Ascorbic acid, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Squalane, Magnesium aspartate, Zinc gluconate, Copper gluconate

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	DdfPro-Retinol Complex 3 MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCT	dermaGEEKNourishing Facial Night Cream	OlayAnti-Aging Face Moisturizer Fragrance-Free	MarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream
Match	—	93%	93%	91%
Price	—	$42.99	$11.01	$21.99
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 17	6 of 17	7 of 17
Key difference	—	Trehalose	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate	Urea
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Ddf - Pro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Ddf - Pro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer ticks this box. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed wheat protein and methyl gluceth-20) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (borago officinalis seed oil, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, oenothera biennis oil, dimethicone and dimethiconol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 4.10% - 5.00%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.15% - 0.25%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
This moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl propionate 0.80% - 1.20%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
5
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
6
Retinol and retinyl esters: biochemistry and physiologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
A clinicopathological study of the effects of topical retinyl propionate cream in skin photoageingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
12
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
13
Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
14
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
15
Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
16
Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
19
Wheat in skin caremdedge.com
20
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
22
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
24
Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
25
Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
26
Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
28
Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
29
Magnesium ions inhibit the antigen-presenting function of human epidermal Langerhans cells in vivo and in vitro. Involvement of ATPase, HLA-DR, B7 molecules, and cytokinesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disordersoatext.com
32
Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrinsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov

DdfPro-Retinol Complex 3 Moisturizer

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