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Cipher Skincare 88MPH
Cipher Skincare

Cipher Skincare 88MPH

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Phytosphingosine, Panthenol + 19 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Short contact therapy with 0.2% retinaldehyde. Visibly plumps lines, evens tone and clears pores with 75% less chance of irritation.”
Source: Cipher Skincare

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, cholesterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, madecassoside, panthenol, phytosphingosine, tripeptide-29

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.7%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.7%
Ceramide apHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.8%
Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.8%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.8%
Tripeptide-29HeroEffect: High~0.15–0.65%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.7%
Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~22–33%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~1.1–1.6%
Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.4%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~0.55–1.25%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.45–1.05%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.35–0.8%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.2–0.8%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.75%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.65%
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.~0.15–0.6%
TrioleinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Sodium chondroitin sulfateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighIs naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Anti-blemish
Salicylic acid, Retinal + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“high-dose retinal, salicylic acid, active brighteners, and restorative factors loaded inside an instantaneous delivery system target wrinkles, blemishes, and uneven pigmentation.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal, salicylic acid. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.35–0.8%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.65%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~0.55–1.25%
PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Retinal, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate + 5 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Short contact therapy with 0.2% retinaldehyde. Visibly plumps lines, evens tone and clears pores with 75% less chance of irritation.”
Source: Cipher Skincare

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate, salicylic acid, undecylenoyl phenylalanine. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside, stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.65%
Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~0.55–1.25%
Undecylenoyl phenylalanineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.~0.35–0.8%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.75%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.35–0.8%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.7%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.45%
Anti-aging
Retinal, Tripeptide-29 + 4 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Short contact therapy with 0.2% retinaldehyde. Visibly plumps lines, evens tone and clears pores with 75% less chance of irritation.”
Source: Cipher Skincare

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: madecassoside, tripeptide-29.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.65%
Tripeptide-29Key activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.65%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.7%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Madecassoside, Oryzanol + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.7%
OryzanolEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin~0.15–0.7%
Zingiber officinale root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking~0.1–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.55%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.45%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Salicylic acid
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.35–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinal, Zingiber officinale root extract
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.35–0.8%est.
Undecylenoyl phenylalanineAn amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.High~0.35–0.8%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~3.4–5%est.
Olive oil peg-7 estersHelps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agentMedium~2.7–4.1%est.
Dextrin palmitateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extractA moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate
Fusanus spicatus kernel oil~3.9–5.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Fusanus spicatus kernel oil
Polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate~3.4–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate
Polyglyceryl-10 laurate~3.4–5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-10 laurate
Olive oil peg-7 esters~2.7–4.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent

More about Olive oil peg-7 esters
Water~1.9–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycereth-26~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
Dextrin palmitate~1.3–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Dextrin palmitate
Phospholipids~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables~0.95–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

More about Potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Propanediol~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.45–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Ectoin~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Salicylic acid~0.35–0.8%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.

More about Undecylenoyl phenylalanine
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate~0.2–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

More about Stearyl glycyrrhetinate
Panthenol~0.2–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Oryzanol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin

More about Oryzanol
Madecassoside~0.15–0.7%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Tocopherol~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Retinal~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Tripeptide-29~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Tripeptide-29
Hyaluronic acid~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Ceramide np~0.2–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Ceramide ap~0.2–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ap
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract~0.15–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.

More about Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract
Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Ceramide eop~0.2–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide eop
Hypericum perforatum extract~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hypericum perforatum extract
Triolein~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triolein
Glyceryl dioleate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl dioleate
Bisabolol~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Ascorbic acid~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate
Carbomer~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium chondroitin sulfate~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Is naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium chondroitin sulfate
Ingredient list view

Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate, Fusanus spicatus kernel oil, Polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Olive oil peg-7 esters, Water, Glycereth-26, Dextrin palmitate, Phospholipids, Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ectoin, Salicylic acid, Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, Dimethyl isosorbide, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Panthenol, Oryzanol, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Retinal, Tripeptide-29, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide eop, Hypericum perforatum extract, Triolein, Glyceryl dioleate, Bisabolol, Zingiber officinale root extract, Ascorbic acid, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium chondroitin sulfate

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🇦🇺 Cipher Skincare (AU)
$150.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Cipher Skincare88MPHYOUR PRODUCTJorgobéMulti Peptide Lifting FillerKate SomervilleMEGA-A Skin Transforming SerumDr Dennis GrossAdvanced Retinol + Ferulic Texture Renewal Serum
Match—40%40%40%
Price—$30.41$75.60$20.00
Shared key ingredients—7 of 213 of 214 of 21
Key difference—NiacinamideAdenosineRetinol
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: Noble Panacea The Absolute Peptide8 Night SerumBYOMA Clarifying Serum

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Product summary

"Cipher Skincare - 88MPH" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Moisturizing and Anti-aging

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.15% - 0.65%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Ceramides (ceramide eop 0.20% - 0.80%, phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.70%, ceramide ap 0.15% - 0.65% and ceramide np 0.20% - 0.80%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • Peptides (tripeptide-29 0.15% - 0.65%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Salicylic acid (0.35% - 0.80%). This is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid. Because of this property, it can work inside pores and help reduce the congestion. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used to treat acne. Because it is a quite strong exfoliator, be careful with using this product too often: it could result in over-exfoliation.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.15% - 0.70% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
  • Humectants (sodium chondroitin sulfate 0.10% - 0.35%, yeast extract 0.15% - 0.60%, hyaluronic acid 0.15% - 0.65% and glycerin 0.45% - 1.00%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 37 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
  2. 2
    Safety Assessment of Glycerin Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfectionsdovepress.com
  6. 6
    Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibriumresearchgate.net
Cipher Skincare 88MPH
Cipher Skincare88MPH
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.