Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Moisturizing
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
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Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (thioctic acid, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - sodium ascorbyl phosphate also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, betaine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A salt of an amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Enriched with Retinol and Niacinamide which make up Vitamin B3, the serum diffuses the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, wrinkles, dark patches and dullness for a more even skin tone.
Source: Mankind
This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Enriched with Retinol and Niacinamide which make up Vitamin B3, the serum diffuses the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, wrinkles, dark patches and dullness for a more even skin tone.
Source: Mankind
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 37/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
A salt of an amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
Potential irritants
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
All ingredients
Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity
A salt of an amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Ingredient list view
Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Butylene glycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Betaine, Sodium hyaluronate, Urea, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Hydrolyzed collagen, Trehalose, Lecithin, Serine, Niacinamide, Arginine, Pyridoxine hcl, Calcium pantothenate, Phenylalanine, Histidine hcl, Tyrosine, Erythritol, Rna, Algin, Pullulan, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Ubiquinone, Thioctic acid, Arachidyl glucoside, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Mannitol, Maltodextrin, Potassium phosphate, Disodium phosphate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl glycol, Arachidyl alcohol, Sodium starch octenylsuccinate, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl linolenate, Glyceryl caprylate, Silica, Sodium polyacrylate, Behenyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Xanthan gum, Pentylene glycol, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Calcium pantothenate modulates gene expression in proliferating human dermal fibroblasts
- Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivo
- Dexapanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation
- Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmetics
- Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol