AHC

AHC Hydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face Serum

Name: AHC - Hydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face Serum
Brand: AHC

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Phytosphingosine + 44 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Hydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face Serum”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, cholesterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide as, ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, copper tripeptide-1, niacinamide, phytosphingosine, urea

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.4–0.6%

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.6%

Ceramide nsHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.6%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ceramide asHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.3–0.55%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.3–0.55%

Methyl gluceth-20Key active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it~4.6–5.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.9–1.15%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.6–0.95%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.4–0.6%

Glucosamine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: HighMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.3–0.55%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%

HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.3–0.55%

IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.3–0.55%

LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Magnesium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

OrnithineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.3–0.55%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.3–0.5%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

TyrosineKey activeEffect: High~0.3–0.55%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.3–0.6%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.25–0.5%

CitrullineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.5%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Polyglyceryl-10 oleateKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

CysteineKey activeEffect: HighMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.05–0.15%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4–4.9%

Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~0.5–0.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.6%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.6%

Evens skin tone

Side benefit · Niacinamide, Glucosamine hcl + 4 more

Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine, cysteine, glucosamine hcl.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

Glucosamine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.3–0.55%

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.3–0.55%

TaurineEffect: LowCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness~0.15–0.3%

CysteineEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.05–0.15%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.55%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Asiaticoside, Cysteine + 7 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - cysteine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CysteineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.05–0.15%

Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.9–1.15%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.3–0.55%

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

TaurineEffect: LowCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness~0.15–0.3%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.6%

Anti-blemish

Side benefit · Niacinamide, Zinc pca + 2 more

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: zinc pca

Zinc pcaKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.4–0.6%

TaurineEffect: LowCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

Side benefit · Niacinamide, Adenosine + 10 more

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, aspartic acid, copper tripeptide-1, lysine, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.5%

Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.3–0.55%

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Glucosamine hclEffect: LowMight be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Parfum, Eucalyptus globulus leaf extract

Medium risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Eucalyptus globulus leaf extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.9–1.1%est.

Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~0.5–0.7%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

TaurineCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectivenessMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Enteromorpha compressa extract—3/5~1.2–1.4%est.

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.6–0.95%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Methyl gluceth-20~4.6–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it

More about Methyl gluceth-20

Butylene glycol~4–4.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~3–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Dipropylene glycol~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

1,2-hexanediol~0.9–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Niacinamide~1.6–2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Codium tomentosum extract~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Codium tomentosum extract

Enteromorpha compressa extract~1.2–1.4%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Enteromorpha compressa extract

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.9–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Glycereth-25 pca isostearate~0.7–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Glycereth-25 pca isostearate

Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.6–0.95%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Artemisia princeps leaf extract~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Artemisia princeps leaf extract

Carbomer~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Tromethamine~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Xanthan gum~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Cetyl ethylhexanoate~0.5–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Maris aqua~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua

Parfum~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Adenosine~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Polyglyceryl-10 oleate~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 oleate

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Trehalose~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Propanediol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Zinc pca~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract

Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Cholesterol~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Ceramide as~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide as

Ceramide ns~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ns

Ascorbic acid~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Citric acid~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ceramide ap~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Eucalyptus globulus leaf extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf extract

Asiatic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Phytosphingosine~0.4–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Madecassic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiaticoside~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Magnesium pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium pca

Sodium lactate~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Copper tripeptide-1~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1

Serine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Sucrose~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Urea~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Glycine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Calcium chloride~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride

Potassium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide

Ornithine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ornithine

Maris sal~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal

Alanine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Magnesium chloride~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride

Threonine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Histidine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Histidine

Aspartic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Valine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Valine

Ceramide eop~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Proline~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Dipotassium phosphate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the pH of the product

More about Dipotassium phosphate

Lysine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Leucine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Leucine

Tyrosine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Tyrosine

Isoleucine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine

Magnesium citrate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Magnesium citrate

Glucosamine hcl~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Might be able to stimulate production of skin's natural moisturizing compounds such as hyaluronic acid. Could be helpful for evening the skin tone.

More about Glucosamine hcl

Phenylalanine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Glutamic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Arginine~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

1-methylhydantoin-2-imide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide

Asparagine~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Asparagine

Citrulline~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Citrulline

Uric acid~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Uric acid

Methionine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methionine

Taurine~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness

More about Taurine

Tryptophan~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tryptophan

Formic acid~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Formic acid

Ammonia~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ammonia

Glutamine~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glutamine

Cysteine~0.05–0.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation

More about Cysteine

Ingredient list view

Water, Methyl gluceth-20, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Niacinamide, Codium tomentosum extract, Enteromorpha compressa extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Glycereth-25 pca isostearate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Artemisia princeps leaf extract, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan gum, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maris aqua, Parfum, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Biosaccharide gum-1, Disodium edta, Trehalose, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Propanediol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Zinc pca, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract, Ceramide np, Cholesterol, Ceramide as, Ceramide ns, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Ceramide ap, Eucalyptus globulus leaf extract, Asiatic acid, Phytosphingosine, Madecassic acid, Asiaticoside, Magnesium pca, Sodium lactate, Copper tripeptide-1, Serine, Sucrose, Urea, Glycine, Calcium chloride, Potassium hydroxide, Ornithine, Maris sal, Alanine, Magnesium chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic acid, Valine, Ceramide eop, Proline, Dipotassium phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Isoleucine, Magnesium citrate, Glucosamine hcl, Phenylalanine, Glutamic acid, Arginine, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, Asparagine, Citrulline, Uric acid, Methionine, Taurine, Tryptophan, Formic acid, Ammonia, Glutamine, Cysteine

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AHCHydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face SerumYOUR PRODUCT	MEDI-PEELLuminous Silk Oil Serum	ISNTREEHyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum	EqqualberryAloe PDRN Calming Serum
Match	—	84%	82%	78%
Price	—	$30.20	$13.54	$18.99
Shared key ingredients	—	24 of 40	15 of 40	13 of 40
Key difference	—	Acetyl Octapeptide-3	Retinol	Madecassoside
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"AHC - Hydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face Serum" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-blemish, Moisturizing and Anti-aging

Ingredient callouts

A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.60% - 2.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.30% - 0.55%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.40% - 0.60%, ceramide ns 0.35% - 0.60%, ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide eop 0.35% - 0.60%, ceramide as 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide ap 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Peptides (copper tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.30% - 0.50%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% and asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.55% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Humectants (zinc pca 0.25% - 0.45%, urea 0.30% - 0.55%, trehalose 0.25% - 0.50%, sucrose 0.30% - 0.50%, sodium lactate 0.30% - 0.55%, magnesium pca 0.30% - 0.55%, histidine 0.30% - 0.55%, glutamic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, glucosamine hcl 0.30% - 0.55%, biosaccharide gum-1 0.25% - 0.50%, aspartic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, sodium hyaluronate 0.25% - 0.50%, glycine 0.30% - 0.55%, glycerin 3.00% - 3.70%, citrulline 0.25% - 0.45%, arginine 0.25% - 0.50% and alanine 0.30% - 0.55%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 19.36£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 36 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
6
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
9
Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesisonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review hindawi.com
11
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Datancbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Resultsmdpi.com
21
Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural studyinfona.pl
22
Selected Biomarkers Revealed Potential Skin Toxicity Caused by Certain Copper Compoundsnature.com
23
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
26
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseasespatents.google.com
29
Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmeticsciteseerx.ist.psu.edu
30
Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Local rhamnosoft, ceramides and L‐isoleucine in atopic eczema: a randomized, placebo controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
33
Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefitsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Dermatologic compositions comprising pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and at least one entity chosen from citrulline, arginine and asparagine, and uses thereof in the treatment of atopic dermatitispatents.google.com
35
Cosmeceuttical Critigue: Taurinemdedge.com
36
The Potential Uses of N-acetylcysteine in Dermatology: A Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov

AHCHydrating Korean Skincare Aqualuronic Face Serum

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.