APLB

APLB Derma Premium Urea Cream

Name: APLB - Derma Premium Urea Cream
Brand: APLB

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

25 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Brand from South Korea APLB. Benefits This cream moisturizes your skin and promotes smooth and healthy skin with 5% urea.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, urea

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.7%

Glycosyl trehaloseKey activeEffect: High~0.25–0.5%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.55%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations5%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2.1%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.4–0.6%

Royal jelly extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.4–0.65%

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysateKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products~0.25–0.45%

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~1–1.2%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.1–3.8%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.6–0.95%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~2–2.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.5–1.8%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.4%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.4–0.6%

Anti-aging

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and promotes skin brightness.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking~0.25–0.45%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Solanum melongena fruit extractEffect: LowEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.4–0.6%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.4%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

7 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.

Hamamelis virginiana leaf extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extractAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~1–1.2%est.

Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Solanum melongena fruit extractEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.45–0.7%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.6–0.95%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.7–5.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Ethyl hexanoate~4.1–5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ethyl hexanoate

Cyclopentasiloxane~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Dipropylene glycol~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Urea5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Cyclohexasiloxane~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethicone~1.7–2.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Glyceryl stearate~1.5–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Niacinamide~1.2–1.5%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~1–1.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil

Stearyl alcohol~0.8–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Cetearyl olivate~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Cetearyl alcohol~0.6–0.95%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.45–0.7%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Fucus vesiculosus extract

Prunella vulgaris extract~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Prunella vulgaris extract

Pollen extract~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pollen extract

Royal jelly extract~0.4–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products

More about Royal jelly extract

Propolis extract~0.4–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract

Madecassic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiaticoside~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Asiatic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract

Solanum melongena fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Solanum melongena fruit extract

Nelumbium speciosum flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nelumbium speciosum flower extract

Hydrolyzed collagen extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed collagen extract

Squalane~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Beta-glucan~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Sorbitan olivate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Panthenol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Stearic acid~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Glycosyl trehalose~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Glycosyl trehalose

Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products

More about Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Arginine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Propanediol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Adenosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Carbomer~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Parfum~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Citral~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Geraniol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Limonene~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Ethyl hexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene glycol, Urea, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Niacinamide, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Stearyl alcohol, Cetearyl olivate, Cetearyl alcohol, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Prunella vulgaris extract, Pollen extract, Royal jelly extract, Propolis extract, Madecassic acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Nelumbium speciosum flower extract, Hydrolyzed collagen extract, Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate, Beta-glucan, Ascorbic acid, Sorbitan olivate, Peg-100 stearate, Panthenol, Stearic acid, Glycosyl trehalose, Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Arginine, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Carbomer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Parfum, Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	APLBDerma Premium Urea CreamYOUR PRODUCT	TOSOWOONGDexpanthenol Cream	CiracleAnti-Redness K Cream	Dr.wantMega Moist Cream
Match	—	90%	89%	88%
Price	$21.60	$19.10−$2.50	$22.80+$1.20	$17.46−$4.14
Shared key ingredients	—	10 of 16	11 of 16	9 of 16
Key difference	—	Madecassoside	Betaine	Madecassoside
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"APLB - Derma Premium Urea Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. APLB - Derma Premium Urea Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (urea, arginine, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Arginine, dimethicone, squalane, cetearyl alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% and madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: dipotassium glycyrrhizate, stearic acid and vitamin c

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.