AHC

AHC 365 Red Cream

Name: AHC - 365 Red Cream
Brand: AHC

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging

Adenosine, Folic acid + 13 more

Works well

What the product description says

“The result means dull skin looks brighter and more luminous while helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.”

Source: Watsons Singapore

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: folic acid, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, lysine, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, serine, sh-oligopeptide-1, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.55–0.8%

Folic acidKey activeEffect: MediumCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.55–0.8%

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneKey activeEffect: MediumAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.6%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Sh-oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.65–1%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a peptide (Myoxinol). It could be helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-aging effect, but the research is lacking and it is rarely used in a high enough concentration~0.2–0.35%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.95%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.55–0.8%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.35–0.65%

Moisturizing

Ceramide ng, Ceramide np + 58 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Antioxidant-rich and packed with nutrients, this revolutionary face cream not only locks moisture into the skin but infuses it with powerful active ingredients.”

Source: Watsons Singapore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, algae extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, ceramide np, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, panthenol, phytosphingosine, sh-oligopeptide-1

Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.9%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.9%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.6–0.95%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.8%

Sh-oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~5.2–6.4%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–5%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~3.7–4.6%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.3–2.8%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.6–2%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.95–1.15%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.65–1%

Ulmus davidiana root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.65–0.95%

Soluble collagenKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.6–0.95%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.6–0.85%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

CyanocobalaminKey activeEffect: HighCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.55–0.8%

Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearateKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.55–0.8%

Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.55–0.8%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.55–0.8%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.55–0.8%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.55–0.8%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.5–0.8%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.5–0.8%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.5–0.75%

FructooligosaccharidesKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.5–0.8%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.5–0.8%

LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%

Crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrateKey activeEffect: HighA plant cell extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.65%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.3–0.55%

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.6%

Saccharide hydrolysateKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.2–0.4%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~4.2–5.1%

Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.3–1.6%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.65–0.95%

Polyquaternium-51Effect: LowAn emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin~0.65–0.95%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.6–0.85%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missing~0.55–0.8%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.5–0.8%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%

Rosa damascena flower waxEffect: LowIs likely to contain rose essential oil that can be irritating. Typically used for its fragrance and to create a thicker product consistency~0.3–0.55%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Isononyl isononanoateEffect: Low, below effective doseForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~0.6–0.9%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.95%

Argania spinosa kernel oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.6–0.9%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.6–0.9%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.8%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.5–0.8%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Superoxide dismutase, Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone + 21 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~25–31%

Camellia sinensis leaf waterEffect: LowGreen tea leaf water. Might have some minimal anti-oxidant effect~1.6–2%

BisabololEffect: LowAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.7–1%

Ulmus davidiana root extractEffect: LowA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.65–0.95%

Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.55–0.8%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.55–0.8%

Cynara scolymus leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating~0.55–0.8%

Eclipta prostrata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.8%

Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.55–0.8%

Rose flower oilEffect: LowFlower oil that is used as a fragrance~0.5–0.75%

Crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrateEffect: LowA plant cell extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.65%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.6–0.9%

Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.6–0.9%

Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.5–0.75%

Bifida ferment lysateUnder-dosedConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–0.8%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

10 strong irritants: Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract + 8 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsHigh~25–31%est.

Ulmus davidiana root extractA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skinHigh~0.65–0.95%est.

Eclipta prostrata leaf extractA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Sorbitan sesquioleateUsed to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Cynara scolymus leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.5–0.75%est.

Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Rose flower oilFlower oil that is used as a fragranceHigh~0.5–0.75%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.

Rosa damascena flower waxIs likely to contain rose essential oil that can be irritating. Typically used for its fragrance and to create a thicker product consistencyHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~5.2–6.4%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~1–1.2%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruit extractA fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missingMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.6–0.85%est.

Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Disodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix together and workd as a cleanserMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.55–0.8%est.

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinoneAn analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergenMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extractA plant extract that might contain a peptide (Myoxinol). It could be helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-aging effect, but the research is lacking and it is rarely used in a high enough concentrationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.65–1%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.6–0.95%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.6–2%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.55–0.8%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract~25–31%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract

Glycerin~4.1–5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Triethylhexanoin~5.2–6.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin

Isohexadecane~4.2–5.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Dimethicone~3.7–4.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Sorbitan stearate~2.6–3.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Squalane~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Camellia sinensis leaf water~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Green tea leaf water. Might have some minimal anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia sinensis leaf water

Cetearyl alcohol~1.6–2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Stearic acid~1.3–1.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

1,2-hexanediol~1–1.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Betaine~0.95–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.75–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Bisabolol~0.7–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Amaranthus caudatus seed extract~0.7–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Amaranthus caudatus seed extract

Ulmus davidiana root extract~0.65–0.95%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin

More about Ulmus davidiana root extract

Methylpropanediol~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Dipropylene glycol~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Sucrose cocoate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sucrose cocoate

Algae extract~0.65–1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Behenyl alcohol~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Eclipta prostrata leaf extract~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Eclipta prostrata leaf extract

Sorbitan sesquioleate~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Sorbitan sesquioleate

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Avena sativa kernel extract~0.6–0.9%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Cynara scolymus leaf extract~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating

More about Cynara scolymus leaf extract

Pteris multifida extract~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pteris multifida extract

Propolis extract~0.55–0.8%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract

Amaranthus hypochondriacus seed extract~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Amaranthus hypochondriacus seed extract

Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruit extract~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A fruit extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is missing

More about Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruit extract

Nymphaea alba flower extract~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nymphaea alba flower extract

Olea europaea fruit oil~0.6–0.85%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Argania spinosa kernel oil~0.6–0.9%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil

Isononyl isononanoate~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate

Beta-glucan~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Glyceryl stearate se~0.55–0.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Adenosine~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.6–0.95%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Disodium edta~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Fructooligosaccharides~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructooligosaccharides

Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate

Polyquaternium-51~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin

More about Polyquaternium-51

Butylene glycol~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cholesterol~0.6–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.5–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Ceramide np~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Panthenol~0.5–0.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Carbomer~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Bifida ferment lysate~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate

Lactobacillus/rice ferment~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lactobacillus/rice ferment

Soluble collagen~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Soluble collagen

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Inulin lauryl carbamate~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Inulin lauryl carbamate

Hydrogenated polydecene~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Cananga odorata flower oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil

Phospholipids~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Raffinose~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Raffinose

Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil

Cyanocobalamin~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Cyanocobalamin

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Salvia sclarea oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Salvia sclarea oil

Folic acid~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

Can help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin

More about Folic acid

Phytosphingosine~0.6–0.95%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Alanine~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Arginine~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ceramide ng~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ng

Disodium stearoyl glutamate~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together and workd as a cleanser

More about Disodium stearoyl glutamate

Glycine~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate

Proline~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Serine~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Sodium hyaluronate~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Sodium pca~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Sorbitol~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Threonine~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil

Glutamic acid~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Lysine~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil

Illicium verum fruit/seed oil~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Illicium verum fruit/seed oil

Sodium palmitoyl proline~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium palmitoyl proline

Rose flower oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Flower oil that is used as a fragrance

More about Rose flower oil

Jasminum officinale oil~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Jasminum officinale oil

Ascorbic acid~0.35–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrate~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant cell extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrate

Fullerenes~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Fullerenes

Hydrolyzed lupine protein~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrolyzed lupine protein

Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

An analogue of coenzyme Q10 that has a lower molecular weight, which can improve its ability to penetrate the skin. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone

Rosa damascena flower wax~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Is likely to contain rose essential oil that can be irritating. Typically used for its fragrance and to create a thicker product consistency

More about Rosa damascena flower wax

Superoxide dismutase~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Dextrin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Maltodextrin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Saccharide hydrolysate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Saccharide hydrolysate

Tromethamine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Sh-oligopeptide-1~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Sh-oligopeptide-1

Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A plant extract that might contain a peptide (Myoxinol). It could be helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-aging effect, but the research is lacking and it is rarely used in a high enough concentration

More about Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extract

Ingredient list view

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Sorbitan stearate, Squalane, Camellia sinensis leaf water, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, Betaine, Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, Hydrogenated lecithin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Bisabolol, Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, Ulmus davidiana root extract, Methylpropanediol, Dipropylene glycol, Sucrose cocoate, Algae extract, Behenyl alcohol, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Avena sativa kernel extract, Cynara scolymus leaf extract, Pteris multifida extract, Propolis extract, Amaranthus hypochondriacus seed extract, Cucumis melo cantalupensis fruit extract, Nymphaea alba flower extract, Olea europaea fruit oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Isononyl isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Beta-glucan, Glyceryl stearate se, Adenosine, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Disodium edta, Fructooligosaccharides, Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyquaternium-51, Butylene glycol, Cholesterol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Ceramide np, Panthenol, Carbomer, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Bifida ferment lysate, Lactobacillus/rice ferment, Soluble collagen, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Inulin lauryl carbamate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Cananga odorata flower oil, Phospholipids, Raffinose, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Cyanocobalamin, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Salvia sclarea oil, Folic acid, Phytosphingosine, Alanine, Arginine, Ceramide ng, Disodium stearoyl glutamate, Glycine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, Proline, Serine, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium pca, Sorbitol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Threonine, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Glutamic acid, Lysine, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Illicium verum fruit/seed oil, Sodium palmitoyl proline, Rose flower oil, Jasminum officinale oil, Ascorbic acid, Crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrate, Fullerenes, Hydrolyzed lupine protein, Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, Rosa damascena flower wax, Superoxide dismutase, Tocopherol, Dextrin, Maltodextrin, Saccharide hydrolysate, Tromethamine, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Sh-oligopeptide-1, Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AHC365 Red CreamYOUR PRODUCT	HeimishBlack Rose Hydra Plumping Sorbet Cream	La MuseDaily Essentials Regenerating Cream	Saturday SkinMulti Peptide Repair Treatment Cream
Match	—	46%	46%	45%
Price	—	$19.97	$27.60	$29.90
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 42	14 of 42	10 of 42
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Niacinamide	Sh-Polypeptide-45
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "AHC - 365 Red Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol, alanine, algae extract, arginine and betaine) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide ng, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, algae extract and cholesterol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.35% - 0.65%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide ng 0.60% - 0.90%, phytosphingosine 0.60% - 0.95% and ceramide np 0.60% - 0.90%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This moistruizer also contains peptides (sh-oligopeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35% and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.20% - 0.40%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Adenosine 0.55% - 0.80% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.50% - 0.80%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 47.10CA$ in Canada, for 66.55A$ in Australia and for 66.99$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 69 studies and safety reviews.

1
Anthocyanin-rich extract from Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx counteracts UVC-caused impairments in ratsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Hibiscus sabdariffa L. – A phytochemical and pharmacological reviewsciencedirect.com
3
Liposome-containing Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx extract formulations with increased antioxidant activity, improved dermal penetration and reduced dermal toxicityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
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Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
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