U Beauty

U Beauty The Return Eye Concentrate

Name: U Beauty - The Return Eye Concentrate
Brand: U Beauty

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Ceramide np, Lactobionic acid + 35 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Larger MACRO-SIREN Capsules are packed with humectants, and anti-aging ingredients to restore moisture, visibly awaken, and retexturize the surface of the skin, smoothing away the look of fine lines and wrinkles for a visibly toned and tightened effect.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera microcristallina, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, lactobionic acid, n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.6–2%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.5%

Cera microcristallinaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency~0.75–1.15%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.6%

Lactobionic acidHeroEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity~0.3–0.5%

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%

Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.65%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.5%

N-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetateHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~3.1–3.8%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.4–0.6%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%

Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 estersKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin~4.1–5%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.35–0.6%

Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~2–2.4%

Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethiconeEffect: LowHelp improve the product's texture~1.1–1.3%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.7%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.35–0.6%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.4–0.65%

Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanoneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4–4.9%

Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.3–0.55%

Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.45–0.65%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.5%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Anti-aging

Glycolic acid, Lactobionic acid + 6 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Larger MACRO-SIREN Capsules are packed with humectants, and anti-aging ingredients to restore moisture, visibly awaken, and retexturize the surface of the skin, smoothing away the look of fine lines and wrinkles for a visibly toned and tightened effect.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid, lactobionic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.5%

Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity~0.3–0.5%

N-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetateKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.3–0.5%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Superoxide dismutase, Glutathione + 8 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (glutathione, lactobionic acid, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.3–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.55%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.25–0.5%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Lactobionic acid + 1 more

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, mandelic acid.

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.3–0.5%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Glutathione, Glycolic acid + 4 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glutathione, glycolic acid, lactobionic acid, mandelic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real life~0.25–0.5%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

23 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

MethyldihydrojasmonateUsed as a fragrance. Smells similar to jasmineHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.7%est.

Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Lactobionic acidA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticityMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 estersHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitateAn oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real lifeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate~4.1–5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate

Butylene glycol~4–4.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Squalane~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Glycerin~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Behenyl alcohol~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Dimethicone~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Dipropylene glycol~1.3–1.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone~1.1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help improve the product's texture

More about Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone

Beheneth-25~0.95–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Beheneth-25

Cera microcristallina~0.75–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency

More about Cera microcristallina

Microcrystalline wax~0.6–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax

Trehalose~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose

Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane

Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer

Hydrogenated castor oil~0.4–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil

Stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract

Plankton extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract

Bisabolol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ceramide np~0.3–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Linoleic acid~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Oleic acid~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Palmitic acid~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Stearic acid~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Glutathione~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione

Superoxide dismutase~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Linolenic acid~0.35–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid

Diamond powder~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Does not have known skin benefits. Might help create an optical illusion of smoother skin

More about Diamond powder

Lactobionic acid~0.3–0.5%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

More about Lactobionic acid

Mandelic acid~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid

Glycolic acid~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Beta-glucan~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

N-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about N-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate

Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed cera/polyglyceryl-3 esters~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed cera/polyglyceryl-3 esters

Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 esters~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 esters

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Myristyl myristate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate

Isohexadecane~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid

Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin tone

An oil-soluble compound that has been shown in laboratory studies (in a petri dish, not on human volunteers) to inhibit melanin production in skin and help even out the skin tone. More research is needed to understand if it works in real life

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate

Methyldihydrojasmonate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Smells similar to jasmine

More about Methyldihydrojasmonate

Sorbitan isostearate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate

Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An anti-oxidant. Is also called 6-paradol. It might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. The manufacturer claims that it is able to stimulate synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, but there is no evidence of effectiveness of this ingredient so far. The only evidence of efficacy for this ingredient so far come from small lab tests. This ingredient comes together with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as part of the complex called SymDecanox HA produced by a cosmetic ingredient supplier Symrise.

More about Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Carbomer~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Citric acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Benzoic acid~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Dehydroacetic acid~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Ingredient list view

Water, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene glycol, Squalane, Glycerin, Behenyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Dipropylene glycol, Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, Beheneth-25, Cera microcristallina, Microcrystalline wax, Trehalose, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Cetearyl alcohol, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Pentylene glycol, Sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer, Hydrogenated castor oil, Stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract, Plankton extract, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Ceramide np, Ascorbyl palmitate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Linoleic acid, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Glutathione, Superoxide dismutase, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Linolenic acid, Diamond powder, Lactobionic acid, Mandelic acid, Glycolic acid, Beta-glucan, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, N-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate, Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed cera/polyglyceryl-3 esters, Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 esters, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Myristyl myristate, Isohexadecane, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Sorbitan isostearate, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Citric acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid

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Product summary

"U Beauty - The Return Eye Concentrate" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (glycerin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, linolenic acid, cera microcristallina, dimethicone and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This product contains acids (lactobionic acid 0.30% - 0.50%, glycolic acid 0.30% - 0.50% and mandelic acid 0.30% - 0.50%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). PHAs (lactobionic acid) especially are great for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.60%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate 0.25% - 0.50% and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.25% - 0.50%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: myristyl myristate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, stearic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.