Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
- Moisturizing
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
A true overnight sensation, our ground-breaking serum is clinically proven to visibly iron out fine lines and wrinkles and reduce deep expression lines – get ready to reawaken the skin you loved.
Source: N/A
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinal.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinal. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Helps stabilize the product formulation
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinal.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, polyglycerin-3.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A product of bacterial fermentation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
A synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A product of bacterial fermentation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
A synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
A product of bacterial fermentation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Triheptanoin, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Squalane, Bentonite, Cyclodextrin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Octyldodecanol, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Bacillus ferment, Alteromonas ferment extract, Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Olea europaea callus culture lysate, Glyceryl stearate, Jojoba esters, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Azelamidopropyl dimethyl amine, Cetyl alcohol, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Xanthan gum, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Pentylene glycol, Retinal, Sodium phytate, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Tocopherol, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Polyglycerin-3, Linoleic acid, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, Butylene glycol, Polyurethane-100, Linolenic acid, Lactic acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide, Benzyl alcohol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatology
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gel
- Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responses
- VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonica
- Evidence for the efficacy and safety of topical herbal drugs in dermatology: Part I: Anti-inflammatory agents
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin