THE FACE SHOP Dr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Cream

THE FACE SHOP Dr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Anti-aging
Niacinamide, Alanyl glutamine + 5 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The formula also contains beta glucan to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: alanyl glutamine, asiaticoside, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%
Alanyl glutamineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.4%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.25–0.5%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Panthenol, Niacinamide + 25 more
Works well
What the product description says
“It contains various centella asiatica-derived ingredients, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to lock in moisture, soothe skin and strengthen the skin barrier.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanyl glutamine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide eop, ceramide np, madecassoside, niacinamide, panthenol, phytosphingosine

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.9–2.3%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%
Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.25–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~2.4–2.9%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.75–1.15%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.45–0.7%
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time~0.45–0.7%
Alanyl glutamineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.6%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.6%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.3–0.55%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.4%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~3.2–3.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.95–1.2%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.3–0.55%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–0.65%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.6%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Phytosphingosine + 2 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%
PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Madecassoside
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Madecassoside, Asiaticoside + 8 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.25–0.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.4%
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamateEffect: LowA mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time~0.45–0.7%
Daucus carota sativa seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%
Eclipta prostrata extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Cinnamomum camphora bark oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eclipta prostrata extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Cinnamomum camphora bark oil—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Origanum majorana leaf extract—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Cymbopogon martini oilAromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil—High~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Peg-150 distearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
C12-20 alkyl glucosideHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.6%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.75–1.15%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dipropylene glycol~6.5–8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclohexasiloxane~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Coco-caprylate/caprate~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Panthenol~1.9–2.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Triethylhexanoin~1.4–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Niacinamide~1.4–1.7%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
1,2-hexanediol~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Glyceryl stearate~0.95–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Cetearyl alcohol~0.75–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
C14-22 alcohols~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A non-drying alcohol that helps stabilize product formulations

More about C14-22 alcohols
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Myristica fragrans extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time

More about Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Alanyl glutamine~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine
Ceramide np~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Dimethicone~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetearyl olivate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Peg-100 stearate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sorbitan olivate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Squalane~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Peg-150 distearate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-150 distearate
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
C12-20 alkyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about C12-20 alkyl glucoside
Madecassoside~0.25–0.5%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Glycereth-20~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycereth-20
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Peg-10 rapeseed sterol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-10 rapeseed sterol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Arachidyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Trisodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps preserve product formulations

More about Trisodium edta
Eclipta prostrata extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating

More about Eclipta prostrata extract
Stearic acid~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Beta-glucan~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Cholesterol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Tromethamine~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Asiaticoside~0.25–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Madecassic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Asiatic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate
Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Beta-carotene~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ceramide eop~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide eop
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cinnamomum camphora bark oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Origanum majorana leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Cymbopogon martini oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Aromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritant

More about Cymbopogon martini oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citral~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Dipropylene glycol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Panthenol, Triethylhexanoin, Niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, C14-22 alcohols, Hydrogenated lecithin, Myristica fragrans extract, Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, Alanyl glutamine, Ceramide np, Dimethicone, Cetearyl olivate, Peg-100 stearate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sorbitan olivate, Squalane, Peg-150 distearate, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Madecassoside, Glycereth-20, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Peg-10 rapeseed sterol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Arachidyl glucoside, Xanthan gum, Trisodium edta, Eclipta prostrata extract, Stearic acid, Beta-glucan, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Beta-carotene, Ceramide np, Phytosphingosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ceramide eop, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cinnamomum camphora bark oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Origanum majorana leaf extract, Cymbopogon martini oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citral, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
THE FACE SHOPDr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery CreamYOUR PRODUCTYUMUCica Exosome Blemish Relief CreamTOSOWOONGCeramide CreamSkinRx LabMadeCera Core Cream
Match—89%88%88%
Price—$24.00$16.40$27.00
Shared key ingredients—11 of 2112 of 2111 of 21
Key difference—AdenosineCentella Asiatica ExtractAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
View product Shop Shop Shop

More alternatives: numbuzin No.2 Cica Ceramide Repair CreamTIRTIR Matcha Calming Cream 50ml

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "THE FACE SHOP - Dr. Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol, alanyl glutamine and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide eop 0.25% - 0.50%, phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide np 0.40% - 0.65%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.40% and madecassoside 0.25% - 0.50% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
  • Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 1.90% - 2.30% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: caprylic/capric triglyceride, stearic acid and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 16.90$ up to 42.00$ in the United States, for 55.79A$ in Australia and for 32.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 51 studies and safety reviews.

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THE FACE SHOP Dr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Cream
THE FACE SHOPDr.Belmeur Advanced Cica Recovery Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.