RNW

Der. Special Melatoc Cream 45ml

Name: RNW - Der. Special Melatoc Cream 45ml
Brand: RNW

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "RNW - Buy RNW Der. Special Melatoc Cream in Australia - Korean Skincare Online" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin and pyrus communis fruit extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated poly (c6-14 olefin) and glyceryl stearate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.40% - 2.10%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.15%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Adenosine 0.15% - 0.60%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.20% - 0.80% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 24.95A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-blemish

NIACINAMIDE at ~1.4–2.1%

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–2.1%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Role: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.6–5.4%

Phenyl trimethiconeRole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–2%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.45–1%

AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.6%

ResveratrolRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

Moisturizing

7 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, pyrus communis fruit extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.6%

PANTHENOLRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.8%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%

PHENYL TRIMETHICONERole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.45–1%

Evens skin tone

NIACINAMIDE at ~1.4–2.1% + 1 more curated active

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Role: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.6–5.4%

Phenyl trimethiconeRole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–2%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.45–1%

Anti-oxidation

RESVERATROL at ~0.1–0.35% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Role: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.6–5.4%

Phenyl trimethiconeRole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%

NiacinamideRole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–2.1%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–2%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.45–1%

Anti-aging

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

Irritancy

16 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~2.1–3.2%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~1.7–2.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.55–1.25%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.2–0.7%est.

Pyrus communis fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentLow~0.1–0.45%est.

Prunus domestica fruit extractA plant extract. Might have some antioxidant propertiesLow~0.1–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.1–0.4%est.

Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesLow~0.1–0.4%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.1–0.4%est.

Caprylyl/capryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agentLow~0.15–0.5%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneLow~0.1–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.05–0.25%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsLow~0.05–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Cetearyl alcohol ~1.3–2% — rinse-off or low %

Low risk

We flag 2 ingredients with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~1.3–2%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMed~0.1–0.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels