RNW

RNW DER. SPECIAL Melatoc Cream

Name: RNW - DER. SPECIAL Melatoc Cream
Brand: RNW

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-blemish

1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A brightening cream helps reduce blemishes and dark spot and improve skin condition.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–2.1%

Moisturizing

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Helps strengthen skin barrier to protect skin from external stimulus.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, pyrus communis fruit extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, panthenol

Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.8%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.45–1%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Key active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.6–5.4%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.6%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–2%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–1.25%

Pyrus communis fruit extract· HumectantEffect: LowCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.1–0.45%

Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.15–0.55%

Evens skin tone

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A brightening cream helps reduce blemishes and dark spot and improve skin condition.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–2.1%

ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.15%

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.05–0.15%

Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.05–0.2%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.6%

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.05–0.15%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.25%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.1–0.35%

Cucumis melo fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.4%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Rosa damascena flower water

Medium risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.1–3.2%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.7–2.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.25%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.7%est.

Pyrus communis fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

Prunus domestica fruit extractA plant extract. Might have some antioxidant propertiesMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Caprylyl/capryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agentMedium~0.15–0.5%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.05–0.25%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.3–2%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.1–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.2–6.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)~3.6–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)

Phenyl trimethicone~2.7–4.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.1–3.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~1.7–2.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Niacinamide~1.4–2.1%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Cetearyl alcohol~1.3–2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Cetearyl olivate~0.8–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Glyceryl stearate~0.55–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Sorbitan olivate~0.4–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.45–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Hydroxystearic acid~0.4–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Hydroxystearic acid

Tromethamine~0.3–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Carbomer~0.3–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Panthenol~0.2–0.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Musa sapientum fruit extract~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Musa sapientum fruit extract

Adenosine~0.15–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Rosa damascena flower water~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water

Pyrus communis fruit extract~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus communis fruit extract

Polyisobutene~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to improve the product consistency

More about Polyisobutene

Prunus domestica fruit extract~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A plant extract. Might have some antioxidant properties

More about Prunus domestica fruit extract

Disodium edta~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Cucumis melo fruit extract~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Cucumis melo fruit extract

Hedera helix leaf/stem extract~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hedera helix leaf/stem extract

Sorbitan oleate~0.1–0.4%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Caprylyl/capryl glucoside

Resveratrol~0.1–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Ascorbyl glucoside~0.05–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Ascorbic acid~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Phenyl trimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Niacinamide, Cetearyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetearyl olivate, Glyceryl stearate, Sorbitan olivate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydroxystearic acid, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Musa sapientum fruit extract, Adenosine, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Rosa damascena flower water, Pyrus communis fruit extract, Polyisobutene, Prunus domestica fruit extract, Disodium edta, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Hedera helix leaf/stem extract, Sorbitan oleate, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Resveratrol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Ascorbic acid, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	RNWDER. SPECIAL Melatoc CreamYOUR PRODUCT	OrjenaResponse synergy barrier cream	MEDIHEALMadecassoside Derma Cream Blemish Repair	MISSHAActibarrier Strong Moist Cream INTENSIVE
Match	—	95%	93%	92%
Price	$20.99	$25.00+$4.01	$25.12+$4.13	$28.11+$7.12
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 8	5 of 8	6 of 8
Key difference	—	Sh-Polypeptide-9	Madecassoside	Copper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"RNW - DER. SPECIAL Melatoc Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin and pyrus communis fruit extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated poly (c6-14 olefin) and glyceryl stearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 1.40% - 2.10%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.15%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Adenosine 0.15% - 0.60% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.20% - 0.80% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.