Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-blemish
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"RNW - DER. SPECIAL Melatoc Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin and pyrus communis fruit extract in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated poly (c6-14 olefin) and glyceryl stearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 1.40% - 2.10%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.15%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- Adenosine 0.15% - 0.60% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
- This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.20% - 0.80% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 20.99$ up to 30.40$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Special Ceramide Cream and DER.
Source: Yesstyle
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, pyrus communis fruit extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Clear Bubble Deep Cleanser, DER.
Source: Yesstyle
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
Potential irritants
Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A plant extract. Might have some antioxidant properties
A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Used to create a thicker product consistency
Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A plant extract. Might have some antioxidant properties
A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Phenyl trimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Niacinamide, Cetearyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetearyl olivate, Glyceryl stearate, Sorbitan olivate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydroxystearic acid, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Musa sapientum fruit extract, Adenosine, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Rosa damascena flower water, Pyrus communis fruit extract, Polyisobutene, Prunus domestica fruit extract, Disodium edta, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Hedera helix leaf/stem extract, Sorbitan oleate, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Resveratrol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Ascorbic acid, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of a Cucumis melo LC. extract rich in superoxide dismutase activity
- ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF FRUIT EXTRACTS USED IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrol
- Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease?
- Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin
- Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agent
- Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
- Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skin
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitor