PRODUCT REVIEW
Rationale #1 The Crème
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
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Can it cause trouble?
Added by Mamamia
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Cheaper alternatives
What can the product work for?
Works for
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Synthesis and maintenance of these vital barrier constituents is highly dependent on Stratum Corneum moisture levels, supported by B-group vitamins, signalling peptides and Essential Fatty Acids.
dimethiconol
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
glycerin
2.5% -
3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
glycine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
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Anti-blemish
niacinamide
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
phytosphingosine
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
copper gluconate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
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Anti-aging
niacinamide
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
threonine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
serine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
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Evens skin tone
niacinamide
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
alanine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
copper gluconate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
p-anisic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
laureth-23
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
laureth-4
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps water and oil mix together
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| WIMJ similarity score |
74%
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81%
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80%
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78%
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77%
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77%
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77%
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76%
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76%
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76%
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76%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
zinc gluconate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
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Potential irritants
p-anisic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
laureth-23
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
laureth-4
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps water and oil mix together
All ingredients
caprylyl methicone
5.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin
dimethicone
4.5% -
5.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
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Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylyl methicone, Dimethicone, Borago officinalis seed oil, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pentylene glycol, Dimethiconol, Sodium polyacrylate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Trideceth-9, P-anisic acid, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Mica, Laureth-23, Sodium hydroxide, Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone, Trideceth-6, Santalum spicatum seed oil, Butylene glycol, Citric acid, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Disodium edta, Folic acid, Behenyl alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan isostearate, Propylene glycol, Tin oxide, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia leaf oil, Juniperus mexicana oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Laureth-4, Potassium sorbate, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Ceramide np, Magnesium aspartate, Zinc gluconate, Brachychiton acerifolius flower extract, Ceramide ap, Ceramide ng, Phytosphingosine, Caprylyl glycol, Copper gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic acid, Banksia serrata flower extract, Citrus australasica fruit extract, Davidsonia pruriens fruit extract, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract, Santalum acuminatum fruit extract, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit extract, Telopea speciosissima flower/leaf extract, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Aspartic acid, Leucine, Acetyl hexapeptide-37, Hexapeptide-10, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Sodium benzoate, Histidine, Limonene, Citral, Linalool, Citronellol, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide
Sources
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oil
- Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in children
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Sodium anisate
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenes
- Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmetics
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Ethnopharmacological Properties and Medicinal Uses of Litsea cubeba
- Biological Activities and Safety of Citrus spp. Essential Oils
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Laureths 4 and 23
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Magnesium ions inhibit the antigen-presenting function of human epidermal Langerhans cells in vivo and in vitro. Involvement of ATPase, HLA-DR, B7 molecules, and cytokines
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties
- Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiency
- Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytes
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin
- Anthocyanin-rich extract from Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx counteracts UVC-caused impairments in rats
- Hibiscus sabdariffa L. – A phytochemical and pharmacological review
- Liposome-containing Hibiscus sabdariffa calyx extract formulations with increased antioxidant activity, improved dermal penetration and reduced dermal toxicity
- The chemotherapeutic potential of Terminalia ferdinandiana: Phytochemistry and bioactivity
- Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof
- In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
- Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cells
- Local rhamnosoft, ceramides and L‐isoleucine in atopic eczema: a randomized, placebo controlled trial
- Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases