Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Payot - Hydrating Anti-Blemish Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol, urea, fructose, glycerin and glycine in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (borago officinalis seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and ethylhexyl palmitate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 12.50$ in the United States, for 15.80CA$ in Canada and for 9.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Hydrating Anti-Blemish Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
fructose, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect
A mineral, magnesium iron silicate. It can help add minerals to the surface of the skin that might be helpful for its barrier function. It is claimed to be able to support collagen production but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (castanea sativa seed extract, imperata cylindrica root extract, tocopheryl linoleate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help neutralize free radicals
A relative of vitamin E (Tocopherol). It can have an anti-oxidant effect in skin and/or to stabilize the product fromulation. It could be irritating but most of the reported allergy and irritation cases appeared in one geographic location (Switzerland) in 1992, and might be due to the quality issues in manufacturing of a particular batch of the ingredient
A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Fortified with an innovative Hydro-Dermo-Regulating Complex, the cream absorbs quickly into skin to deliver optimum hydration, whilst a blend of Natural Honey Extract and Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract protect against first signs of ageing.
Source: Lookfantastic CA
This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - beta-glucan - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.
This ingredient castanea sativa seed extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A mineral, magnesium iron silicate. It can help add minerals to the surface of the skin that might be helpful for its barrier function. It is claimed to be able to support collagen production but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Hydrating Anti-Blemish Cream
Source: From product name
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 50/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Polymethyl methacrylate, Mannitol, Sodium hyaluronate, Imperata cylindrica root extract, Castanea sativa seed extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Sodium pca, Honey extract, Beta-glucan, Panthenol, Urea, Bisabolol, Glycine, Inositol, Fructose, Niacinamide, Olivine extract, Smithsonite extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopheryl linoleate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl linoleate, Borago officinalis seed oil, Biotin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Butylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Xanthan gum, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Sodium lactate, Isohexadecane, Disodium edta, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Sodium citrate, Parfum, Benzyl salicylate, Benzyl benzoate, Hexyl cinnamal, Linalool, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate
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- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Allergic contact dermatitis from grasses
- Chestnut extract
- Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plants
- Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasis
- Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentation
- Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healing
- Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan
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- Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro study
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- Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast
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- Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatus
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- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiency
- Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytes
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- An Epidemic Outbreak of Papular and Follicular Contact Dermatitis to Tocopheryl Linoleate in Cosmetics. Swiss Contact Dermatitis Research Group
- Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocotrienols as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oil
- Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in children
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts