Paula's choice

Paula's choice Resist Anti-ageing Hydrator

Name: Paula's choice - Resist Anti-ageing Hydrator
Brand: Paula's choice

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow

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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone

Niacinamide, Epigallocatechin gallate

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Reduces discolouration from breakouts”

Source: Paula's Choice UK

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: epigallocatechin gallate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.5–1.8%

Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.45–0.65%

Anti-blemish

Niacinamide, Epigallocatechin gallate + 1 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Advanced anti-ageing moisturiser for oily skin smooths fine lines and reduces blackheads.”

Source: Paula's Choice UK

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: epigallocatechin gallate

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.5–1.8%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~2–2.5%

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Glucose oxidase + 15 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Advanced anti-ageing moisturiser for oily skin smooths fine lines and reduces blackheads.”

Source: Paula's Choice UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glucose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cocos nucifera fruit extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

Glucose oxidaseKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.6–3.2%

Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.35–0.65%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.3–1.6%

LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.25–0.5%

LactoperoxidaseKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In theory, could support healthy skin's microbiome, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.45–0.65%

Octyldodecyl neopentanoateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Often used to stabilize other ingredients, for example, sunscreen~4.5–5.5%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.1–1.3%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~7.1–8.7%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.5–0.7%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.7–2.1%

Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.3–0.5%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–0.95%

Epigallocatechin gallateEffect: LowA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.45–0.65%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%

Anti-aging

Adenosine, Niacinamide + 2 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Advanced anti-ageing moisturiser for oily skin smooths fine lines and reduces blackheads.”

Source: Paula's Choice UK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: epigallocatechin gallate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.5–0.7%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~2–2.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Epigallocatechin gallate, Boerhavia diffusa root extract + 2 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (epigallocatechin gallate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.65%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.5–0.7%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~2–2.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 flagged ingredients

Low risk

We flag 5 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~2–2.5%est.

Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.35–0.65%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.1–1.3%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Cyclopentasiloxane~7.1–8.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate~4.5–5.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Often used to stabilize other ingredients, for example, sunscreen

More about Octyldodecyl neopentanoate

Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer~3.3–4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of silicone that create a smooth product finish and can create an optical soft-focus effect on the skin. Helps to thicken the product consistency

More about Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer

Glycerin~2.6–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~2–2.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Cetyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Niacinamide~1.5–1.8%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Dimethicone~1.3–1.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Cetearyl alcohol~1.1–1.3%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Butylene glycol~0.7–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glyceryl stearate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Adenosine~0.5–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Epigallocatechin gallate~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

More about Epigallocatechin gallate

Glucose oxidase~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glucose oxidase

Lactoperoxidase~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In theory, could support healthy skin's microbiome, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Lactoperoxidase

Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract

Cocos nucifera fruit extract~0.35–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract

Lactobacillus~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus

Polysilicone-11~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11

Sodium chloride~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Potassium thiocyanate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium thiocyanate

Glucose~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Xanthan gum~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Ceteareth-20~0.25–0.45%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20

Decyl glucoside~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside

Citric acid~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, Glycerin, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Cetyl alcohol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Adenosine, Epigallocatechin gallate, Glucose oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Lactobacillus, Polysilicone-11, Sodium chloride, Potassium thiocyanate, Glucose, Xanthan gum, Ceteareth-20, Decyl glucoside, Citric acid, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Paula's choiceResist Anti-ageing HydratorYOUR PRODUCT	Dr.Reju-AllAdvanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream Max	Cos De BAHAHyaluronic acid gel cream	Doctor RogersFace Cream
Match	—	75%	73%	72%
Price	$44.78	$66.60+$21.82	$12.99−$31.79	$88.00+$43.22
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 13	4 of 13	5 of 13
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Panthenol	Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Irritancy	Low	Low	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

1
Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
5
Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
6
Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
7
Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
9
Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
13
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
14
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Great green tea ingredient? A narrative literature review on epigallocatechin gallate and its biophysical properties for topical use in dermatologyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Comparative Evaluation of Different Co-Antioxidants on the Photochemical- and Functional-Stability of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate in Topical Creams Exposed to Simulated Sunlightmdpi.com
17
Photodegradation of (−)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical cream formulations and its photostabilizationsciencedirect.com
18
Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin reliefpatents.google.com
19
Plant-Derived Immunomodulatorssciencedirect.com
20
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Ecofriendly surfactant is allergen of the yearmdedge.com

Paula's choiceResist Anti-ageing Hydrator

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