Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Mesoestetic - Dermamelan Intimate Home Depigmenting Gel Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Mesoestetic - Dermamelan Intimate Home Depigmenting Gel Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, mannitol, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (cholesterol, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters, dimethicone and isostearyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 3.70% - 5.50%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
- There is also Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (2.70% - 4.00%). In this formulation. It is a derivative of azelaic acid. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with Azelaic Acid. Because of this property, products with Potassium Azeloyl Digclycinate can have a nicer texture.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 84.99£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (kojic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This innovative home maintenance gel works by treating the mechanisms responsible for pigmentation formation, helping to prevent the appearance of dark spots and their reappearance.
Source: Face the future
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: kojic acid, niacinamide, potassium azeloyl diglycinate, tranexamic acid
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Dermamelan Intimate Home Depigmenting Gel Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, mannitol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cholesterol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
Anti-blemish
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide, potassium azeloyl diglycinate.
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Mesoestetic Dermamelan Intimate Home Depigmenting Gel Cream | Current | $84.99 | |
Bioderma Hydrabio Gel-Creme | 56% | $15.99 | |
Paula's choice Invisible Finish Moisture Gel | 55% | $44.00 | |
 e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream | 54% | $-1.00 | |
 CeraVe Psoriasis Moisturizing Cream | 53% | $-1.00 | |
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Niacinamide, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Butylene glycol, Tranexamic acid, Isostearyl alcohol, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sodium citrate, Unknown, Isononyl isononanoate, Phytic acid, Salicylic acid, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Kojic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Plankton extract, Jojoba esters, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Biosaccharide gum-2, Tocopheryl acetate, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Acacia decurrens flower wax, Phosphatidylcholine, Citric acid, Mannitol, Aminoethylphosphinic acid, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 80, Sodium chloride, Polyisobutene, Polyacrylate-13, Sodium hydroxide, Ethylcellulose, Bht, Sodium metabisulfite, Dimethicone, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
- Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation
- Tranexamic acid accelerates skin barrier recovery and upregulates occludin in damaged skin
- The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin dryness
- Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids
- Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study
- Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis
- TOPICAL TREATMENT OF MELASMA
- Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color.
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Acacia Catechu Gum, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Wax, Acacia Decurrens Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax, Acacia Farnesiana Gum, Acacia Senegal Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, and Acacia Senegal Gum Extract1
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfite
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol