La Mer

La Mer The Hydrating Illuminator

Name: La Mer - The Hydrating Illuminator
Brand: La Mer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Ceramide ng, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 36 more

Works well

What the product description says

“The Hydrating Illuminator”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide ng, panthenol

Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.2–0.4%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.9–7.2%

Cetyl ricinoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.3–4%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~2.1–2.5%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.3–1.6%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1–1.2%

Cetyl estersKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.6–0.85%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.55–0.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–0.65%

Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%

Medicago sativa seed powderKey activeEffect: MediumMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.3–0.55%

Ascophyllum nodosum extractKey activeEffect: HighBrown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.4%

Asparagopsis armata extractKey activeEffect: HighRed seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Porphyridium cruentum extractKey activeEffect: MediumA red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.2–0.35%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4.5–5.5%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.8–2.2%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.35–0.6%

Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.25–0.4%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed rice extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing~0.25–0.4%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.2–0.35%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.2–0.4%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.2–0.35%

Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.25–0.45%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%

Yeast extractUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.45%

Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.4%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.2–0.35%

Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.2–0.4%

Evens skin tone

Side benefit · Acetyl glucosamine, Hydrolyzed rice extract + 6 more

Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.2–0.4%

Hydrolyzed rice extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing~0.25–0.4%

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.25–0.45%

Yeast extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.4%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.2–0.35%

Anti-aging

Side benefit · Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Acetyl glucosamine + 8 more

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1–1.2%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.6–0.85%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.45%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Citrus aurantifolia peel extract + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 33 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantifolia peel extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Amyl cinnamal—High~0.15–0.3%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.3–1.6%est.

Medicago sativa seed powderMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Tocopheryl succinateUsed to preserve the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Sigesbeckia orientalis extractA plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compoundMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium sulfiteHelps stabilize and preserve a product formulationMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

5 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1–1.2%est.

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.6–0.85%est.

Porphyridium cruentum extractA red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effect3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~2.1–2.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.9–7.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Butylene glycol~4.5–5.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cetyl ricinoleate~3.3–4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl ricinoleate

Trisiloxane~2.5–3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of silicone. Used to improve product texture

More about Trisiloxane

Glyceryl stearate se~2.1–2.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Glyceryl stearate~1.8–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~1.6–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.3–1.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~1–1.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Cetyl esters~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl esters

Algae extract~0.6–0.85%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Cetyl alcohol~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Glycerin~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Sesamum indicum seed oil~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil

Medicago sativa seed powder~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Medicago sativa seed powder

Helianthus annuus seedcake~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seedcake

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps thicken the product texture

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil

Sodium gluconate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Copper gluconate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidation

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Calcium gluconate~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Magnesium gluconate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

Zinc gluconate~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliation

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate

Tocopheryl succinate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to preserve the product formulation

More about Tocopheryl succinate

Niacin~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin

Sesamum indicum seed powder~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sesamum indicum seed powder

Caffeine~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine

Panthenol~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Acetyl glucosamine~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine

Sigesbeckia orientalis extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compound

More about Sigesbeckia orientalis extract

Citrus aurantifolia peel extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantifolia peel extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Sorbitol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Tourmaline~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tourmaline

Porphyridium cruentum extract~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effect

More about Porphyridium cruentum extract

Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract

Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract

Asparagopsis armata extract~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect

More about Asparagopsis armata extract

Ascophyllum nodosum extract~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Brown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect

More about Ascophyllum nodosum extract

Ceramide ng~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Hydrolyzed rice extract~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizing

A plant extract that is claimed to be helpful in moisturizing and lightening the skin, but evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed rice extract

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.25–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Laminaria digitata extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Sucrose~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Yeast extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract

Isohexadecane~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Citric acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Malt extract~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Malt extract

Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Parfum~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Alcohol denat.~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Tin oxide~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide

Silica~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Bht~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Sodium sulfite~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps stabilize and preserve a product formulation

More about Sodium sulfite

Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl benzoate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Coumarin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Linalool~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Limonene~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Citronellol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Hexyl cinnamal~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal

Amyl cinnamal~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Amyl cinnamal

Mica~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Titanium dioxide~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ci 14700~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Cetyl ricinoleate, Trisiloxane, Glyceryl stearate se, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetyl esters, Algae extract, Cetyl alcohol, Glycerin, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Medicago sativa seed powder, Helianthus annuus seedcake, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Sodium gluconate, Copper gluconate, Calcium gluconate, Magnesium gluconate, Zinc gluconate, Tocopheryl succinate, Niacin, Sesamum indicum seed powder, Caffeine, Panthenol, Acetyl glucosamine, Sigesbeckia orientalis extract, Citrus aurantifolia peel extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Sorbitol, Sodium hyaluronate, Tourmaline, Porphyridium cruentum extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Asparagopsis armata extract, Ascophyllum nodosum extract, Ceramide ng, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydrolyzed rice extract, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Laminaria digitata extract, Sucrose, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Yeast extract, Isohexadecane, Xanthan gum, Citric acid, Malt extract, Polysorbate 80, Hexylene glycol, Parfum, Alcohol denat., Tin oxide, Silica, Sodium citrate, Disodium edta, Bht, Sodium sulfite, Sodium metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl benzoate, Coumarin, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Hexyl cinnamal, Amyl cinnamal, Mica, Titanium dioxide, Ci 14700

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	La MerThe Hydrating IlluminatorYOUR PRODUCT	M.A.C CosmeticsMini MAC Strobe Cream	Estée LauderRevitalizing Supreme+ Youth Power Soft Milky Lotion Moisturizer	GLAMGLOWGlowstarter Mega Illuminating Moisturiser - Pearl Glow
Match	—	49%	49%	46%
Price	—	$12.62	$100.00	$49.52
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 20	9 of 20	10 of 20
Key difference	—	Linoleic Acid	Cholesterol	Linoleic Acid
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Crème de la Mer - The Hydrating Illuminator" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Acetyl glucosamine, acetyl hexapeptide-8, algae extract, faex and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ng, algae extract, sesamum indicum seed oil, butyrospermum parkii butter and dimethicone) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide ng 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.40%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: zinc gluconate, niacin, copper gluconate, titanium dioxide, sigesbeckia orientalis extract, yeast extract and yeast extract

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 93.00$ up to 95.00$ in the United States, for 147.12A$ in Australia and from 58.97£ up to 60.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 39 studies and safety reviews.

1
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
3
Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
5
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Protein and oil composition of sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum, L.) grown in the Gizan area of Saudi Arabiatandfonline.com
7
Triglyceride composition of Sesamum indicum seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Seed oil content and fatty acid composition in East African sesame (Sesamum indicum L.) accessions evaluated over 3 yearssciencedirect.com
9
Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Safety Assessment of Helianthus annuus (Sunflower)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
11
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disordersoatext.com
14
Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrinsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Importance of the form of topical vitamin E for prevention of photocarcinogenesispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
19
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
20
The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefitsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitroonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugatesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamineonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Purified Pland Extractskalidees.com
26
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
28
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
29
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plantsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasissciencedirect.com
32
Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentationonlinelibrary.wiley.com
33
Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
34
Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studiesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
The natural yeast extract isolated by ethanol precipitation inhibits melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and downregulating melanosome transferncbi.nlm.nih.gov
37
Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitaminsresearchgate.net
38
Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
39
Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfitencbi.nlm.nih.gov

La MerThe Hydrating Illuminator

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