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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - Excellage Cream-Balm" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Anhydroxylitol, artemia extract, carnosine, glycerin and mannitol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters and dimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.30% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Adenosine 0.25% - 0.50%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.50% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.40% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, vitamin c, titanium dioxide and niacinamide

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 87.45£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.