Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"Institut Esthederm - EXCELLAGE CREAM" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Anhydroxylitol, artemia extract, carnosine, glycerin and mannitol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, stearyl dimethicone, dimethicone and c10-18 triglycerides) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.20% - 0.35%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.25%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.55% and madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 74.25£ up to 100.79£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Restore time-worn connections with this anti-ageing moisturiser, which delivers a triple action of density, nutrition and radiance to turn back the effects of chronological, hormonal and environmental signs of ageing.
Source: Face the future
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
anhydroxylitol, artemia extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Restore time-worn connections with this anti-ageing moisturiser, which delivers a triple action of density, nutrition and radiance to turn back the effects of chronological, hormonal and environmental signs of ageing.
Source: Face the future
This product contains carnosine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm EXCELLAGE CREAM | Current | $74.25 | |
NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Surmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream | 81% | $39.59 | |
 Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptides | 78% | - | |
e.l.f. Cosmetics Fragrance Free Holy Hydration! Face Cream | 78% | $9.10 | |
 Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist Peptide & Vitamin C Firming Moisturiser | 77% | $27.26 | |
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Comedogenic ingredients
Helps oil and water mix together
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Ingredient list view
Water, Silica, Dipropylene glycol, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Isononyl isononanoate, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Lauroyl lysine, Niacinamide, Camellia japonica seed oil, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Stearyl dimethicone, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Propanediol, Anhydroxylitol, Peg-75 stearate, C10-18 triglycerides, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Pentylene glycol, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract, Xylitol, Octadecene, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Hexanediol, Ceteth-20, Parfum, Sodium citrate, Sodium dextran sulfate, Propylene glycol, Madecassic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Asiatic acid, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Xanthan gum, Ascorbic acid, Saccharide isomerate, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Artemia extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application
- Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment
- 18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Cultures
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells