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Institut Esthederm EXCELLAGE CREAM
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm EXCELLAGE CREAM

Efficacy91/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Adenosine, Asiaticoside + 8 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“anti-ageing moisturiser”
Source: Face the future

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, carnosine, creatine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.4%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.45–0.7%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%
Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 31 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“anti-ageing moisturiser”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, artemia extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Stearyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.45–0.65%
Kappaphycus alvarezii extractKey activeEffect: HighA red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties~0.3–0.55%
Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.4%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.5%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2.1%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.45–0.7%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
C10-18 triglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture~0.4–0.6%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.7–1.05%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.3–0.55%
Lauroyl lysineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture~1.1–1.4%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.3–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.35–0.65%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.6–0.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2–2.5%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~3–3.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%
Evens skin tone
Glycyrrhetinic acid, Hydrolyzed soy protein + 2 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“radiance”
Source: Face the future

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Carnosine + 9 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.4%
Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Kappaphycus alvarezii extractEffect: LowA red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties~0.3–0.55%
Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.45–0.7%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearateHelps oil and water mix together3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.25%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Silica~7.2–8.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Dipropylene glycol~4.3–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Octyldodecanol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Glycerin~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isononyl isononanoate~2–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Dimethicone~1.7–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Lauroyl lysine~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Lauroyl lysine
Niacinamide~0.95–1.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Camellia japonica seed oil~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil
Cetyl alcohol~0.7–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Xylitylglucoside~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Stearyl dimethicone~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Stearyl dimethicone
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Propanediol~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Anhydroxylitol~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Peg-75 stearate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate
C10-18 triglycerides~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture

More about C10-18 triglycerides
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Mannitol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Pentylene glycol~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Titanium dioxide~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract
Xylitol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Octadecene~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Octadecene
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Ceteth-20~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20
Parfum~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium citrate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium dextran sulfate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium dextran sulfate
Steareth-20~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Glucose~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Creatine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Kappaphycus alvarezii extract~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties

More about Kappaphycus alvarezii extract
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Adenosine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Asiaticoside~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Iron oxides~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Propylene glycol~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Madecassic acid~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Asiatic acid~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium lactate~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Carnosine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ascorbic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Saccharide isomerate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Artemia extract~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract
Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.15–0.25%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.15–0.25%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Ingredient list view

Water, Silica, Dipropylene glycol, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Isononyl isononanoate, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Lauroyl lysine, Niacinamide, Camellia japonica seed oil, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Stearyl dimethicone, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Propanediol, Anhydroxylitol, Peg-75 stearate, C10-18 triglycerides, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Pentylene glycol, Titanium dioxide, Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract, Xylitol, Octadecene, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Ceteth-20, Parfum, Sodium citrate, Sodium dextran sulfate, Steareth-20, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Glucose, Creatine, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Kappaphycus alvarezii extract, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Adenosine, Asiaticoside, Iron oxides, Propylene glycol, Madecassic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Asiatic acid, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Xanthan gum, Ascorbic acid, Saccharide isomerate, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Artemia extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Institut EsthedermEXCELLAGE CREAMYOUR PRODUCTTIRTIRMatcha Calming Cream 50mlNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital CreamVT CosmeticsCica Collagen Cream
Match—77%77%76%
Price$81.83$23.14−$58.69$60.00−$21.83$16.84−$64.99
Shared key ingredients—8 of 217 of 218 of 21
Key difference—Dipeptide-2Hexapeptide-11Tripeptide-1
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - EXCELLAGE CREAM" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Anhydroxylitol, artemia extract, carnosine, glycerin and mannitol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, stearyl dimethicone, dimethicone and c10-18 triglycerides) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.20% - 0.35%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.25%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.55% and madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c and titanium dioxide

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 74.25£ up to 100.79£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Institut Esthederm EXCELLAGE CREAM
Institut EsthedermEXCELLAGE CREAM
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