innisfree

innisfree Retinol Green Tea PDRN Korean Firming & Smoothing Serum for Slow-Aging

Name: innisfree - Retinol Green Tea PDRN Korean Firming & Smoothing Serum for Slow-Aging
Brand: innisfree

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Lactobacillus ferment lysate + 20 more

Works well

What the product description says

“- Hyaluronic Acid: Intensely hydrates for immediate glow.”

Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.9%

Lactobacillus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumA "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking~22–33%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.4–5.2%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.1–1.6%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.45–1.05%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.3–0.7%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.75%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.2–0.75%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.45%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.5%

Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.1–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2.5%

Glyceryl polymethacrylate· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture~0.55–1.25%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.2–0.8%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.15–0.65%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.15–0.7%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.2–0.8%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.4%

AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.6%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.1–0.45%

Anti-aging

Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 5 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Powered by 56 percent Green Tea PDRN and one percent Triple Retinol Complex, the lightweight formula absorbs quickly to help rejuvenate, refine texture, visibly firm, and smooth fine lines.”

Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.4%

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05–0.1%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.9%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.5%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Retinol, Achillea millefolium extract + 5 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.4%

Achillea millefolium extractEffect: LowPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.15–0.55%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.5%

Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.1–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.55%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.4%

Evens skin tone

Side benefit · Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate + 3 more

Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

In addition, this product contains hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.1–0.45%

Exfoliation

Side benefit · Hydroxyethyl urea, Retinol + 2 more

Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea, retinol.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.2–0.75%

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05–0.1%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.6%

Anti-blemish

Side benefit · Niacinamide, Retinol + 4 more

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Lauric acidEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes~0.15–0.7%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.05–0.1%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Achillea millefolium extractPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.85%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.3–0.7%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Sodium metaphosphateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesMedium~0.15–0.7%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.15–0.6%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes3/5~0.15–0.7%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.45–1.05%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.3–0.7%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

Medicube Deep Reviving Bakuchiol Retinol Serum

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Lactobacillus ferment lysate~22–33%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Lactobacillus ferment lysate

Glycerin~3.4–5.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propanediol~4.1–6.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Water~3.3–5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dipropylene glycol~2.2–3.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Butylene glycol~1.6–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Niacinamide~1.3–1.9%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

1,2-hexanediol~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Squalane~1.1–1.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Glyceryl polymethacrylate~0.55–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Glyceryl polymethacrylate

Dimethyl isosorbide~0.45–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide

Methyl trimethicone~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of silicone that helps create a silky product finish and dissolve other ingredients

More about Methyl trimethicone

Cetearyl alcohol~0.45–1.05%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Hydroxyethyl urea~0.2–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizing

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glycine soja oil~0.3–0.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Allantoin~0.15–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Glyceryl stearate~0.2–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Xanthan gum~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Pentylene glycol~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.1–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.05–0.1%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Stearic acid~0.2–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Sodium polyacrylate~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate

Sodium metaphosphate~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metaphosphate

Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate

Palmitic acid~0.15–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine~0.1–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Retinol~0.1–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

Achillea millefolium extract~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract

Beta-carotene~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Myristic acid~0.15–0.6%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Lauric acid~0.15–0.7%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

CleansingAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

More about Lauric acid

Pullulan~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan

Zein~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Zein

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Pectin~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pectin

Citric acid~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ingredient list view

Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Dipropylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, Squalane, Glyceryl polymethacrylate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Methyl trimethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycine soja oil, Allantoin, Glyceryl stearate, Xanthan gum, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Pentylene glycol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Stearic acid, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Sodium polyacrylate, Sodium metaphosphate, Kojyl methylenedioxycinnamate, Palmitic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Retinol, Sodium hyaluronate, Hyaluronic acid, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Achillea millefolium extract, Beta-carotene, Myristic acid, Lauric acid, Pullulan, Zein, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Pectin, Citric acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	innisfreeRetinol Green Tea PDRN Korean Firming & Smoothing Serum for Slow-AgingYOUR PRODUCT	IOPEExpert Retinol RX 2% Reti-Jection Serum for Wrinkles	MedicubeDeep Reviving Bakuchiol Retinol Serum	epiiHPR Pro Shot
Match	—	92%	90%	85%
Price	$52.00	$54.47+$2.47	$19.78−$32.22	$17.49−$34.51
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 15	8 of 15	7 of 15
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Retinyl Retinoate	Madecassoside
Irritancy	High	Medium	High	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
6
Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
7
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
9
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
12
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
14
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
15
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
17
Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
18
Final report on the safety assessment of Sodium Metaphosphate, Sodium Trimetaphosphate, and Sodium Hexametaphosphatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
25
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longaonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov

innisfreeRetinol Green Tea PDRN Korean Firming & Smoothing Serum for Slow-Aging

Buy at Sephora$52.00 Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Sephora$52.00 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.