Fraijour

Fraijour Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream

Name: Fraijour - Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream
Brand: Fraijour

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

35 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, ceramide np, copper tripeptide-1, dipeptide-2, hexapeptide-9, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.2–0.35%

Soluble collagenKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Dipeptide-2HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Nonapeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

AtelocollagenKey activeEffect: HighA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Hexapeptide-9Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.5–3%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%

CollagenKey activeEffect: MediumCannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products~0.2–0.4%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.5–1.8%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.4–0.65%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.4%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~4.1–5.1%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.65%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.8%

Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.85%

Argania spinosa kernel oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.4%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.4%

Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.25–0.45%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Evens skin tone

4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.4%

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.25–0.5%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.4%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.4%

Anti-blemish

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.4%

Anti-aging

16 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This anti-aging cream is formulated with retinal liposome to increase collagen production.”

Source: N/A

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, adenosine, bakuchiol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, atelocollagen, copper tripeptide-1, dipeptide-2, hexapeptide-9, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Nonapeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Hexapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Dipeptide-2Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

AtelocollagenKey activeEffect: MediumA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.2–0.35%

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.85%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Brassica oleracea capitata leaf extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might help calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%

Medicago sativa extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%

Centaurea cyanus flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Brassica oleracea italica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight have some anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking~0.25–0.45%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.4%

Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Salvia officinalis oil, Chamomilla recutita flower/leaf extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Salvia officinalis oil—High~0.2–0.4%est.

Centaurea cyanus flower extractA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower/leaf extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower water—High~0.2–0.4%est.

RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.5–3%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.4%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Brassica oleracea capitata leaf extractPlant extract that might help calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Brassica oleracea italica extractMight have some anti-inflammatory properties but research is lackingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Medicago sativa extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~1.7–2.1%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.6–0.85%est.

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dipropylene glycol~6.6–8.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Hydrogenated polydecene~4.1–5.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Glycerin~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.5–3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Butylene glycol~1.9–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Ethylhexyl palmitate~1.7–2.1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Cyclopentasiloxane~1.5–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Polypropylsilsesquioxane~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polypropylsilsesquioxane

Stearyl alcohol~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.6–0.85%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Collagen extract~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Collagen extract

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.4–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil

Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

1,2-hexanediol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Propanediol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Allantoin~0.25–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Bakuchiol~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Disodium edta~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Salvia officinalis oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Salvia officinalis oil

Cilicium verum (anise) fruit extract

Not recognized

Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Borago officinalis extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Borago officinalis extract

Centaurea cyanus flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals

More about Centaurea cyanus flower extract

Chamomilla recutita flower/leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Chamomilla recutita flower/leaf extract

Hyacinthus orientalis extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hyacinthus orientalis extract

Lavandula angustifolia flower water~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower water

Argania spinosa kernel oil~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil

Camellia japonica seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil

Ceramide np~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Rosa canina fruit oil~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Brassica oleracea capitata leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Plant extract that might help calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Brassica oleracea capitata leaf extract

Brassica oleracea italica extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might have some anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking

More about Brassica oleracea italica extract

Medicago sativa extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Medicago sativa extract

Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract

Brassica campestris extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Brassica campestris extract

Collagen~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products

More about Collagen

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Raphanus sativus seed extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Raphanus sativus seed extract

Sodium soy hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sodium soy hydrolyzed collagen

Soluble collagen~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Soluble collagen

Zinc hydrolyzed collagen~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Zinc hydrolyzed collagen

Lecithin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Bixa orellana seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bixa orellana seed oil

Atelocollagen~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Atelocollagen

Retinal~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal

Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ascorbic acid~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-5

Copper tripeptide-1~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1

Dipeptide-2~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Dipeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Ingredient list view

Water, Dipropylene glycol, Hydrogenated polydecene, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Stearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glyceryl stearate, Collagen extract, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Propanediol, Allantoin, Bakuchiol, Tocopheryl acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium edta, Salvia officinalis oil, Unknown, Glycine soja oil, Borago officinalis extract, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, Chamomilla recutita flower/leaf extract, Hyacinthus orientalis extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower water, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Camellia japonica seed oil, Ceramide np, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Rosa canina fruit oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Brassica oleracea capitata leaf extract, Brassica oleracea italica extract, Medicago sativa extract, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Brassica campestris extract, Collagen, Hydrolyzed collagen, Raphanus sativus seed extract, Sodium soy hydrolyzed collagen, Soluble collagen, Zinc hydrolyzed collagen, Lecithin, Bixa orellana seed oil, Atelocollagen, Retinal, Tocopherol, Ascorbic acid, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, Copper tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

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$6.95

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	FraijourRetin-Collagen 3D Core CreamYOUR PRODUCT	AHCYouth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face	K-SECRETSEOUL 1988 Eye Cream : Retinal Liposome 4% + Fermented Bean	KsecretSEOUL 1988 Eye Cream : Retinal Liposome 4% + Fermented Bean
Match	—	63%	63%	63%
Price	$6.95	$7.91+$0.96	$21.15+$14.20	$9.84+$2.89
Shared key ingredients	—	19 of 28	6 of 28	6 of 28
Key difference	—	Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester	Niacinamide	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Fraijour - Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, hexapeptide-9, glycerin and hydrolyzed collagen) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1, glycine soja oil and hydrolyzed collagen) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.20% - 0.40%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Bakuchiol in this moisturizer (the concentration is about 0.25% - 0.50%). Helps fight photodamage (wrinkles, elasticity loss and pigmentation) and can reduce clogged pores and blemishes. Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from a plant Babchi. It acts similar to retinoids, but with less irritation risk.
This moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.20% - 0.40%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.10% - 0.20%, tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.40%, nonapeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%, hexapeptide-9 0.15% - 0.30%, dipeptide-2 0.20% - 0.35%, copper tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%, acetyl tetrapeptide-5 0.20% - 0.35% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.20% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c, vitamin e, lecithin, rosehip oil, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, agran oil, allantoin and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 32 studies and safety reviews.

1
Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
4
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
6
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
7
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
10
Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skinresearchgate.net
11
Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
18
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
21
Anti-inflammatory Effects of Brassica oleracea Var. capitata L. (Cabbage) Methanol Extract in Mice with Contact Dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Effect of Brassica oleracea in rats skin wound healingresearchgate.net
23
Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Wheat in skin caremdedge.com
25
The Efficacy and Safety of Succinylated Atelocollagen and Adenosine for the Treatment of Periorbital Wrinklesscirp.org
26
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
29
Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Datancbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Resultsmdpi.com
31
Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural studyinfona.pl
32
Selected Biomarkers Revealed Potential Skin Toxicity Caused by Certain Copper Compoundsnature.com

FraijourRetin-Collagen 3D Core Cream

Buy on Amazon$6.95 · as of 10/16 00:20 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$6.95 · as of 10/16 00:20 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.