Fraijour Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream

"Fraijour - Retin-Collagen 3D Core Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, hexapeptide-9, glycerin and hydrolyzed collagen in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1, glycine soja oil and hydrolyzed collagen) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

• This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.15%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
• This moisturizer contains Bakuchiol (0.30% - 0.55%). It is a plant extract that is has a similar effect to that of Retinoids but with less irritation. Bakuchiol can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation.
• This moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
• Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
• This moisturizer also contains Peptides (hexapeptide-9 0.25% - 0.45%, tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%, dipeptide-2 0.25% - 0.45%, nonapeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55%, acetyl tetrapeptide-5 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.25% - 0.45%, copper tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.45%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
• Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.