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Erborian Skin Therapy – Sérum Lacté Nuit Multi-Perfecteur
Erborian

Erborian Skin Therapy – Sérum Lacté Nuit Multi-Perfecteur

Efficacy81/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains gluconolactone.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica leaf extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.25–0.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Evens skin tone
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: gluconolactone

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Moisturizing
19 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: lactobacillus ferment, pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.5–1.8%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.2–5.1%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.6–1.9%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.2–0.35%
PcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.6–0.95%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.2–0.4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.2–2.7%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.15–0.3%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.9–2.3%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~3.1–3.8%
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.4–0.6%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
7 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support

This product contains ingredients (gluconolactone) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
Centella asiatica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.25–0.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconolactone.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (gluconolactone) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.3–5.3%
Capsicum annuum fruit extractEffect: LowPepper extract. Might be able to help neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.2–0.35%
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.4–0.6%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.15–0.3%
Scrophularia nodosa extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect. Used as a fragrance~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Polygonum cuspidatum root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product~0.2–0.35%
Panax ginseng root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
8 strong irritants: Scrophularia nodosa extract, Citrus junos fruit extract + 6 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Scrophularia nodosa extractA plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus junos fruit extractContains essential oil. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~4.3–5.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.9–2.3%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.5–1.8%est.
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Capsicum annuum fruit extractPepper extract. Might be able to help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.25–0.4%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polygonum cuspidatum root extractA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the productMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Gluconolactone~4.3–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Squalane~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Dicaprylyl carbonate~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Butylene glycol~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Pentylene glycol~1.9–2.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.5–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Sodium hydroxide~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Zinc~0.9–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Zinc
Pca~0.6–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Pca
Phyllostachys bambusoides juice~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phyllostachys bambusoides juice
Ophiopogon japonicus root extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Ophiopogon japonicus root extract
Phyllostachys bambusoides extract~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phyllostachys bambusoides extract
Polygonatum officinale rhizome/root extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polygonatum officinale rhizome/root extract
Panax ginseng root extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract
Scrophularia nodosa extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect. Used as a fragrance

More about Scrophularia nodosa extract
Capsicum annuum fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Pepper extract. Might be able to help neutralize free radicals

More about Capsicum annuum fruit extract
Citrus junos fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus junos fruit extract
Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.25–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Kigelia africana fruit extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Kigelia africana fruit extract
Dioscorea villosa root extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dioscorea villosa root extract
Equisetum giganteum extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Equisetum giganteum extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Polygonum cuspidatum root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product

More about Polygonum cuspidatum root extract
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Allantoin~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Lactobacillus ferment~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil
Ceteareth-20~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
2-hexanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about 2-hexanol
Glyceryl caprylate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Beta-glucan~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Parfum~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexyl cinnamal~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Ingredient list view

Water, Gluconolactone, Squalane, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Butylene glycol, Pentylene glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Sodium hydroxide, Zinc, Pca, Phyllostachys bambusoides juice, Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, Phyllostachys bambusoides extract, Polygonatum officinale rhizome/root extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Scrophularia nodosa extract, Capsicum annuum fruit extract, Citrus junos fruit extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Centella asiatica extract, Kigelia africana fruit extract, Dioscorea villosa root extract, Equisetum giganteum extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Allantoin, Lactobacillus ferment, Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oil, Ceteareth-20, 2-hexanol, Glyceryl caprylate, Beta-glucan, Caprylyl glycol, Tocopherol, Parfum, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Linalool, Citronellol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexyl cinnamal

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ErborianSkin Therapy – Sérum Lacté Nuit Multi-PerfecteurYOUR PRODUCTEstelle and ThildEstelle Thild Super BioActive Age Control SerumTHE ROUTEThe Everything Day - Skin Rhythm Multi-TaskerLumeneNordic Ageless [AJATON] Radiant Youth Pressed Serum
Match—51%50%50%
Price—$78.19$90.00$44.90
Shared key ingredients—5 of 133 of 134 of 13
Key difference—Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCopper Heptapeptide-14 PantothenateN-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 54 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
  5. 5
    A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
Erborian Skin Therapy – Sérum Lacté Nuit Multi-Perfecteur
ErborianSkin Therapy – Sérum Lacté Nuit Multi-Perfecteur
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