Name: Elizabeth Arden - Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin Renewing Serum
Brand: Elizabeth Arden

What can the product work for?

Works for

Anti-blemish
Anti-aging
Evens skin tone
Exfoliation
Moisturizing
Anti-oxidation

Anti-blemish

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.4% - 0.95%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

phytosphingosine 0.15% - 0.7%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

Anti-aging

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.4% - 0.95%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.2% - 0.7%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

Evens skin tone

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.4% - 0.95%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

Exfoliation

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.4% - 0.95%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

Moisturizing

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, phytosphingosine

palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.3% - 0.75%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.2% - 0.7%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

phytosphingosine 0.15% - 0.7%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

Anti-oxidation

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

bisabolol 1.4% - 2%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

butyrospermum parkii butter 1.4% - 2.1%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Concentration: Effectiveness: LOW

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

Honesty check

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Can it cause trouble?

Overall product irritation risk
Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2

Potential irritants

farnesol 0.4% - 1%

Irritation risk:

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.4% - 0.95%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-blemish, Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

Comodogenic ingredients

butyrospermum parkii butter 1.4% - 2.1%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High

Works for: Moisturizing, Anti-oxidation, Anti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

glycine soja oil 0.45% - 1.05%

Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium

Works for: Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

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Ingredients & concentrations

All ingredients

Key Actives

retinol 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Mattifying, Exfoliation, Anti-oxidation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

colloidal oatmeal 0.85% - 1.25%

Irritation risk:

Works for: Moisturizing, Anti-oxidation, Anti-inflammatory, Reduces irritation

Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation

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