Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Dr. Duve Medical - Clarifying Face Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Duve Medical - Clarifying Face Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, urea, dextran, fructose and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (tripeptide-1, dimethicone, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, cetearyl alcohol and hydrogenated vegetable glycerides) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.20%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (tripeptide-1 0.10% - 0.20% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.15% - 0.25%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Clarifying Face Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
dextran, fructose.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tripeptide-5, panthenol, tripeptide-1, urea
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Help soften the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
An emollient that softens the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product consistency
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
For Clarifying Face Cream, Dr. Stefan Duve has combined the active ingredient extracts with two of the most effective anti-aging ingredients firstly, growth factors , peptides that stimulate collagen production , and hyaluronic acid, which gives the skin volume and elasticity.
Source: N/A
This product contains palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
This 24-hour special care helps it regulates the skin's own sebum production with plant-based active ingredients and salicylic acid and thus prevents clogged pores.
Source: N/A
This product contains ingredients (zinc pca) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 75/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Dr. Duve Medical Clarifying Face Cream | Current | $195.00 | |
 Maruderm Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream | 85% | - | |
Simple Kind To Skin Replenishing Rich Moisturizer | 79% | $2.29 | |
ISDIN Isdinceutics Prevent Hyaluronic Moisture Sensitive Skin | 77% | $29.12 | |
Cetaphil Optimal Hydration Skin Replenishing Water Gel | 76% | - | |
 VT Cosmetics Cica Collagen Cream | 75% | $23.95 |
Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
Potential irritants
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Used to create a thicker product consistency
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Used to create a thicker product consistency
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product consistency
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Used to create a thicker product consistency
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Propanediol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethylimidazolidinone rice starch, Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, Butylene glycol, Sorbitol, Ethylhexyl isononanoate, Tocopheryl acetate, Dimethicone, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Zinc pca, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Hydrogenated palm glycerides, Xanthan gum, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Sodium lactate, Sodium pca, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Bioflavonoids, Disodium edta, Alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Phragmites karka extract, Poria cocos extract, Pantolactone, Potassium sorbate, Petasites japonicus root extract, Fructose, Glycine, Ascorbyl palmitate, Inositol, Lactic acid, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Urea, Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Dextran, Tripeptide-1
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nut
- Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis
- Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiency
- Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytes
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Topical urea in skincare: A review