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1
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water
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Plain old water
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2
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c12-15 alkyl benzoate
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Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
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3
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glycerin
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One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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4
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pentylene glycol
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Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
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5
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caprylic/capric triglyceride
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A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
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6
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niacinamide
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Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture
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7
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aminobutyric acid
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Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing
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8
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glyceryl stearate
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An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
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9
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peg-40 stearate
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Helps oil and water mix together
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10
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silica
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Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin
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11
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stearyl alcohol
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An emollient that helps soften the skin
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12
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3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
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A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
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13
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ascorbic acid
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One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty pentrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
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14
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collagen amino acids
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Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function
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15
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superoxide dismutase
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An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
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16
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glycine
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Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
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17
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hydroxyproline
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Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
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18
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carnitine
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19
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ubiquinone
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Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
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20
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adenosine
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Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to stimulate collagen production in skin
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21
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phyllanthus emblica fruit extract
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A plant extract that might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and have a skin lightening effect if used in high enough concentrations
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22
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hydrolyzed soy protein
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Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
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23
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ascorbyl glucoside
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A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
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24
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ceramide ng
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A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
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25
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dipeptide-2
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A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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26
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palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
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A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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27
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palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
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A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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28
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palmitoyl tripeptide-1
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A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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29
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hesperidin methyl chalcone
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Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to be able to improve the appearance of undereye darkness but evidence is missing. Can be an allergen and cause irritation
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30
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ectoin
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Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
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31
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chrysin
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Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin
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32
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glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract
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A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
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33
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cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract
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Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
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34
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tocopherol
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Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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35
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lactic acid
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An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)
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36
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biotin
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Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect
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37
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sea whip extract
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Might help neutrlize free radicals, calm down inflammation, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin
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38
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porphyridium cruentum extract
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39
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echinacea angustifolia extract
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Plant extract that might contain antioxidants, have antibacterial effect and help reduce inflammation, but solid evidence is lacking. Can be irritating
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40
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arnica montana flower extract
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A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin
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41
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hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
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Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation
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42
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lecithin
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Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
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43
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leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
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A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
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44
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n-hydroxysuccinimide
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Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating
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45
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pullulan
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Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
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46
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tribehenin
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Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
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47
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hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
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A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish
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48
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cetearyl alcohol
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A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
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49
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acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
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Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
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50
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ceteareth-20
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Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
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51
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steareth-20
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Helps oil and water mix together
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52
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peg-10 phytosterol
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53
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tetrasodium edta
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Helps to stabilize the product formulation
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54
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phytic acid
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An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics
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55
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sodium citrate
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Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
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56
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citric acid
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Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
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57
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phenoxyethanol
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A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
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58
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benzyl alcohol
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A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
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59
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sodium benzoate
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A preservative
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60
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potassium sorbate
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A preservative
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61
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mica
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Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light
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62
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titanium dioxide (ci 77891
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Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
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Maria from WIMJ 
