PRODUCT REVIEW
Dr Dennis Gross Merry, Smooth & Bright
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
A derivative of vitamin A that supports collagen production, visibly reverses photo-aging, improves the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and addresses UV-induced free-radical damage while targeting overproduction of blemish-causing sebum and fading the look of dark spots.
bakuchiol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
retinol
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
adenosine
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
A derivative of vitamin A that supports collagen production, visibly reverses photo-aging, improves the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and addresses UV-induced free-radical damage while targeting overproduction of blemish-causing sebum and fading the look of dark spots.
mandelic acid
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
bakuchiol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
glycolic acid
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
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Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
-Glycolic Acid (AHA).
mandelic acid
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
salicylic acid
1.5% -
1.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
glycolic acid
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
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Anti-blemish
bakuchiol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
retinol
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
salicylic acid
1.5% -
1.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
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Moisturizing
sodium hyaluronate
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
copper pca
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
glycerin
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-oxidation
ferulic acid
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
ubiquinone
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
bakuchiol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hamamelis virginiana water
2.1% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
centella asiatica extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
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Potential irritants
glycolic acid
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hamamelis virginiana water
2.1% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
glycolic acid
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Alcohol denat. sd alcohol 40-b, Glycolic acid, Potassium hydroxide, Hamamelis virginiana water, Salicylic acid, Polysorbate 20, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, Malic acid, Citric acid, Salix alba bark extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Achillea millefolium extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Soy isoflavones, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Glycerin, Copper pca, Zinc pca, Lecithin, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Disodium edta, Menthone glycerin acetal, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Water, Sodium bicarbonate, Resveratrol, Retinol, Ascorbic acid, Ubiquinone, Phospholipids, Adenosine, Tocopheryl acetate, Soy isoflavones, Achillea millefolium extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Copper pca, Sodium pca, Zinc pca, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Octoxynol-9, Tetrasodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Water, Propylene glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Bakuchiol, Retinol, Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract, Ferulic acid, Ubiquinone, Quercetin, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Saccharide isomerate, Phospholipids, Centella asiatica extract, Caffeine, Salix alba bark extract, Salicylic acid, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Morus alba bark extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Glycolic acid, Panthenol, Butylene glycol, Tetrapeptide-21, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Mandelic acid, Potassium hydroxide, Maltodextrin, Pvm/ma decadiene crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Water, Propylene glycol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactic acid, Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, Mandelic acid, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract, Ferulic acid, Squalane, Linoleic acid, Salicylic acid, Salix alba bark extract, Phospholipids, Soy isoflavones, Sodium hyaluronate, Saccharide isomerate, Ubiquinone, Sodium pca, Hexylresorcinol, Quercetin, Adenosine, Morus alba bark extract, Panthenol, Glycolic acid, Maltodextrin, Xanthan gum, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Potassium hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Sodium phytate, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
Sources
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- Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extract
- An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging
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- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis
- Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review
- Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrol
- Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease?
- Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin
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- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin
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- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
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- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Mulberroside F Isolated from the Leaves of Morus alba Inhibits Melanin Biosynthesis
- Morus alba L. nature's functional tonic
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
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- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Response
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function