What's In My Jar
Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel
Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation
Hydroxyethyl urea, Retinol + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The clinical retinol formula exfoliates dead cells and supports your skin’s natural repair process while a replenishing moisture complex keeps your skin in perfect balance, preventing any dryness.”
Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea, mandelic acid, retinol.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~2.3–2.8%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4–1.7%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Ferulic acid + 4 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This powerful peel works deep within your skin to recover collagen, repair wrinkles, and restore firmness.”
Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract, ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4–1.7%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.6%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Hydroxyethyl urea + 15 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The clinical retinol formula exfoliates dead cells and supports your skin’s natural repair process while a replenishing moisture complex keeps your skin in perfect balance, preventing any dryness.”
Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, linolenic acid.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.65%
Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~2.3–2.8%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.45–0.7%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–0.7%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.45–0.65%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
Peg-8 dimethiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that can help create nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.6%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.3–0.55%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Retinol, Ferulic acid + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4–1.7%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.6%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.65–0.95%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit the brand mentions · Retinol, Ferulic acid + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This multi-tasking one-step peel targets stubborn signs of aging without irritation to diminish the appearance of wrinkles & enlarged pores, hydrate skin, correct uneven skin tone, texture, and hyperpigmentation.”
Source: SkincareRX

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains hydroxyethyl urea, mandelic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4–1.7%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Linoleic acid + 4 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid, mandelic acid

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.4–1.7%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.65%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.15%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.6%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Sd alcohol 40-b + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~4.4–5.3%est.
Sd alcohol 40-bCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~4.2–5.1%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~1.4–1.7%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower extractA plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~1.5–1.9%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.75–1.15%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
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Triple-Threat Peel
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hamamelis virginiana water~4.4–5.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Sd alcohol 40-b~4.2–5.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Sd alcohol 40-b
Butylene glycol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Hydroxyethyl urea~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea
Peg-8 dimethicone~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can help create nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Peg-8 dimethicone
Ethoxydiglycol~1.5–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Retinol~1.4–1.7%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Ferulic acid~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid
Centella asiatica extract~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Bisabolol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Soy isoflavones~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Soy isoflavones
Rehmannia glutinosa root extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rehmannia glutinosa root extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Phospholipids~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Sphingolipids~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids
Squalane~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Anthemis nobilis flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating

More about Anthemis nobilis flower extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Sodium pca~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Mandelic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Linoleic acid~0.4–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Linolenic acid~0.35–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract
Citrus limon peel extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Bha~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Trideceth-9~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Trideceth-9
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Benzoic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Bht~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Hamamelis virginiana water, Sd alcohol 40-b, Butylene glycol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Peg-8 dimethicone, Ethoxydiglycol, Retinol, Ferulic acid, Centella asiatica extract, Bisabolol, Soy isoflavones, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Squalane, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Sodium pca, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tetrasodium edta, Sodium hydroxide, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Bha, Trideceth-9, Polysorbate 20, Potassium sorbate, Benzoic acid, Bht, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery PeelYOUR PRODUCTDr Dennis GrossAdvanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Texture Renewal PeelEmerginCTriple-Threat PeelDrunk ElephantLook At That Acid
Match—76%73%69%
Price——$63.90$140.69
Shared key ingredients—11 of 162 of 169 of 16
Key difference—NiacinamideVitamin CHeptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Irritancy High High Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel
Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel
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