Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

30 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Skin is left feeling soft, firm and hydrated, with Mica particles working to diffuse light to smooth the look of fine lines.”

Source: Lookfantastic US

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, aminobutyric acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: tetrapeptide-21

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~3.1–3.7%

Aminobutyric acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.2–0.4%

Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.55–0.8%

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%

Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.15–0.25%

Salvia hispanica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighChia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier~0.15–0.25%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.1–0.2%

SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.15–0.3%

Tetrapeptide-21HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.1–0.25%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.15–0.3%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.15–0.3%

IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~5.6–6.9%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.15–0.25%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.15–0.3%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.5–4.2%

Tremella fuciformis extractEffect: LowA mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.2–0.35%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.2–2.7%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.2–0.4%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.3%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.2%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.2%

Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.1–0.2%

Anti-aging

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream”

From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ferulic acid, tetrapeptide-21.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.15–0.25%

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.35%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.4–0.6%

Tetrapeptide-21Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Aminobutyric acidEffect: LowHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.2–0.4%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.15–0.25%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.15–0.3%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.2%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Enriched with gallic acid, this product also helps to combat the appearance of dark spots and even skin tone, while hyaluronic acid works to plump skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

Source: SpaceNK EU

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains ellagic acid, glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Ellagic acidKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 12 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.35%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.4–0.6%

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%

CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.2–0.35%

Ellagic acidEffect: LowCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.25–0.45%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.15–0.25%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.2%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.2%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.1–0.2%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, retinol.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Arnica montana flower extract, Retinol + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 28 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Rosa moschata seed oil—High~0.15–0.25%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Ci 75120An orange dyeHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.3–1.6%est.

Ellagic acidCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.1–0.25%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.2%est.

Tremella fuciformis extractA mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

6 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

6 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.5–4.2%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.1–0.25%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.2–0.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Isododecane~5.6–6.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane

Cetearyl alcohol~3.5–4.2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Dimethicone~3.1–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Butylene glycol~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps optically blurr skin imperfections such as fine lines and pores

More about Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer

Lauryl dimethicone~1.5–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lauryl dimethicone

Potassium cetyl phosphate~1.3–1.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Polymethyl methacrylate~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.75–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Collagen amino acids~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids

Ferulic acid~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Gallic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Gallic acid

Ellagic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone

More about Ellagic acid

Arnica montana flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin

More about Arnica montana flower extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Retinol~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin toneIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidationMattifying

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Aminobutyric acid~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing

More about Aminobutyric acid

Caffeine~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine

Euphrasia officinalis extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Euphrasia officinalis extract

Sphingolipids~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids

Phospholipids~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Rosa moschata seed oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rosa moschata seed oil

Salvia hispanica seed oil~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier

More about Salvia hispanica seed oil

Oenothera biennis oil~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil

Limnanthes alba seed oil~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil

Tetrapeptide-21~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tetrapeptide-21

Glycine soja oil~0.1–0.25%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Algae extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Sodium pca~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Saccharide isomerate~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Salix alba bark extract~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Tocopherol~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glycolic acid~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Lactic acid~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Acrylates/carbamate copolymer~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acrylates/carbamate copolymer

Glycerin~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Tremella fuciformis extract~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Tremella fuciformis extract

Gluconolactone~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer

Tetrahydropiperine~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tetrahydropiperine

Hexylene glycol~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Isohexadecane~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Polysorbate 80~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Citric acid~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Cyclodextrin~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin

Sodium citrate~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Tetrasodium edta~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta

Glyceryl behenate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate

Bht~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Ceteareth-20~0.2–0.4%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl stearate se~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Propanediol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Sorbitan oleate~0.2–0.35%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Calcium gluconate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Mica~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Ci 75120~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An orange dye

More about Ci 75120

Ingredient list view

Water, Isododecane, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer, Lauryl dimethicone, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Polymethyl methacrylate, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Collagen amino acids, Ferulic acid, Gallic acid, Ellagic acid, Arnica montana flower extract, Centella asiatica extract, Retinol, Aminobutyric acid, Caffeine, Euphrasia officinalis extract, Sphingolipids, Phospholipids, Rosa moschata seed oil, Salvia hispanica seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Tetrapeptide-21, Glycine soja oil, Algae extract, Sodium pca, Sodium hyaluronate, Saccharide isomerate, Salix alba bark extract, Tocopherol, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Acrylates/carbamate copolymer, Glycerin, Tremella fuciformis extract, Gluconolactone, Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Hexylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Citric acid, Cyclodextrin, Sodium citrate, Tetrasodium edta, Glyceryl behenate, Bht, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl stearate se, Propanediol, Sorbitan oleate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Calcium gluconate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Mica, Ci 75120

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Eye CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Super Facialistfor Men Firming Eye Cream	Community Sixty-SixHydrating Caffeine Eye Cream	Some By MiRetinol Intense Advanced Triple Action Eye Cream
Match	—	74%	73%	71%
Price	$55.20	$13.22−$41.98	$18.00−$37.20	$11.95−$43.25
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 21	5 of 21	6 of 21
Key difference	—	Gluconolactone	Niacinamide	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Dr Dennis Gross - Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (algae extract, aminobutyric acid, glycerin, saccharide isomerate and sodium hyaluronate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Algae extract, glycine soja oil, limnanthes alba seed oil, oenothera biennis oil and salvia hispanica seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.35%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
This moistruizer also contains peptides (tetrapeptide-21 0.10% - 0.20%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 68.00$ up to 69.00$ in the United States, for 86.30CA$ in Canada and for 68.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 56 studies and safety reviews.

1
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
3
Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Applicationkarger.com
6
Tolerance and Efficacy of a Product Containing Ellagic and Salicylic Acids in Reducing Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots in Comparison With 4% Hydroquinonejddonline.com
7
Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ellagic Acid on Keratinocytes via MAPK and STAT Pathwaysmdpi.com
8
Effects of Topical Arnica Gel on Post-Laser Treatment Bruisesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Effects of microcurrent application alone or in combination with topical Hypericum perforatum L. and Arnica montana L. on surgically induced wound healing in Wistar ratsthieme-connect.com
10
The seamy side of natural medicines: contact sensitization to arnica (Arnica montana L.) and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.)onlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Accelerated resolution of laser‐induced bruising with topical 20% arnica: a rater‐blinded randomized controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
13
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
15
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
17
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
19
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
gamma-Aminobutyric acid (A) receptor agonists accelerate cutaneous barrier recovery and prevent epidermal hyperplasia induced by barrier disruptionpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Wound healing activity of gamma-aminobutyric Acid (GABA) in ratspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Moisturizing effect of Gamma-aminobutyric acid for cosmetic applicationam-2017.weebly.com
25
Stimulation of human fibroblast collagen synthesis in vitro by gamma-aminobutyric acidpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
The role of epidermal sphingolipids in dermatologic diseasesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
29
Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
33
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
35
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
37
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
40
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
42
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
44
The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
45
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
46
The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
47
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
48
The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
49
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
50
An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patientsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
51
Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Preventionsciencedirect.com
52
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacidssciencedirect.com
53
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Lightneostrata.neogen.gr
54
Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
55
Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatologydoi.org
56
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Eye Cream

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