Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta pH Balance Replenishing Cream

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Alpha Beta pH Balance Replenishing Cream
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Linoleic acid, Manganese pca + 27 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“A lightweight gel cream that adapts to your skin's needs to deliver up to 24-hour hydration, balance and restore skin, and visibly calm redness.”

Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: copper pca, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Manganese pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Often used as a part of an ingredient complex Physiogenyl together with Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA and Zinc PCA. The manufacturer claims that it does more than attracting water, but there is no evidence or studies supporting this claim~0.6–0.9%

PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.55–0.85%

Stearyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.7–3.3%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.3–0.55%

Copper pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.65%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.65%

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.65–0.95%

Magnesium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.15%

Heptyl undecylenateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~1.8–2.2%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.5–0.75%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.7–3.3%

IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.6%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.45–0.65%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~5.4–6.6%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.3–0.6%

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3–0.6%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Anti-blemish

Linoleic acid, Zinc pca + 6 more

Limited evidence

What the product description says

“This clinically backed gel cream maintains your skin's natural pH balance to prevent sensitivity, breakouts, and dehydration.”

Source: Sephora

This product contains ingredients (glycolic acid, linoleic acid, zinc pca) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.65–0.95%

Zinc pcaKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%

Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Adenosine + 6 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.6%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Lactic acid + 1 more

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Hydrolyzed soy protein + 3 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.3–0.55%

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Adenosine + 6 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.5%

Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.25–0.5%

Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Citrus sinensis fruit extract

Medium risk

We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus sinensis fruit extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.

Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.6%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.7–3.3%est.

Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishMedium~1.8–2.2%est.

Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.

Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.6–0.85%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.4–0.6%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.7–3.3%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.2–0.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butylene glycol~5.4–6.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

C13-16 isoalkane~4.4–5.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about C13-16 isoalkane

Cetearyl alcohol~2.7–3.3%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.7–3.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Heptyl undecylenate~1.8–2.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish

More about Heptyl undecylenate

Glyceryl behenate~1.4–1.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate

Saccharide isomerate~1.1–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Magnesium pca~0.75–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium pca

Manganese pca~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Often used as a part of an ingredient complex Physiogenyl together with Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA and Zinc PCA. The manufacturer claims that it does more than attracting water, but there is no evidence or studies supporting this claim

More about Manganese pca

Phytic acid~0.6–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid

Sodium pca~0.55–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Linoleic acid~0.65–0.95%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Phospholipids~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Copper pca~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Copper pca

Inonotus obliquus extract~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Inonotus obliquus extract

Lactic acid~0.4–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Sodium hyaluronate~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Niacinamide~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Bisabolol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Phytosterols~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols

Adenosine~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Salicylic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract

Caulerpa lentillifera extract~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Caulerpa lentillifera extract

Citrus sinensis fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus sinensis fruit extract

Cocos nucifera fruit extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract

Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract

Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract

Melia azadirachta flower extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract

Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein

Zinc pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

Glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Glycerin~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Pentylene glycol~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Stearyl dimethicone~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Stearyl dimethicone

Dimethicone~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Dimethicone crosspolymer-3~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer-3

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-10 laurate

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Isohexadecane~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Isododecane~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane

Octadecene~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Octadecene

Potassium chloride~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium chloride

Sodium chloride~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Calcium chloride~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride

Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ceteareth-20~0.3–0.55%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20

Sorbitan oleate~0.2–0.35%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Polysorbate 80~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium bicarbonate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate the product pH

More about Sodium bicarbonate

Sodium citrate~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Citric acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, C13-16 isoalkane, Cetearyl alcohol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Heptyl undecylenate, Glyceryl behenate, Saccharide isomerate, Magnesium pca, Manganese pca, Phytic acid, Sodium pca, Linoleic acid, Phospholipids, Copper pca, Inonotus obliquus extract, Lactic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Niacinamide, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Bisabolol, Centella asiatica extract, Phytosterols, Adenosine, Salicylic acid, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Caulerpa lentillifera extract, Citrus sinensis fruit extract, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Zinc pca, Glycolic acid, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearyl dimethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethicone crosspolymer-3, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Isohexadecane, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Isododecane, Octadecene, Potassium chloride, Sodium chloride, Calcium chloride, Tocopherol, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan oleate, Polysorbate 80, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium bicarbonate, Sodium citrate, Citric acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr Dennis GrossAlpha Beta pH Balance Replenishing CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Paula's choiceInvisible Finish Moisture Gel	SCINICHyaluronic Acid Soothing Stick	Colleen Rothschild BeautyWeightless Moisturizer
Match	—	71%	65%	64%
Price	$59.78	$38.81−$20.97	$14.72−$45.06	—
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 23	6 of 23	6 of 23
Key difference	—	Oatmeal Extract	Madecassoside	Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 41 studies and safety reviews.

1
Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
2
Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasmancbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
4
Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.europepmc.org
5
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
7
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
9
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
12
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
13
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
15
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
17
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
19
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
22
A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
23
Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
Analyzing Lycopene Content in Fruitssciencedirect.com
25
Melia azedarachmdedge.com
26
Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overviewjapsonline.com
27
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
30
Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesisonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review hindawi.com
32
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
35
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
37
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
38
In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
39
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
41
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Dr Dennis GrossAlpha Beta pH Balance Replenishing Cream

Buy at Sephora$62.00 $59.85as of 11/1 18:04 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Sephora$62.00 $59.85as of 11/1 18:04 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.