Dr Dennis Gross 20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel

Dr Dennis Gross 20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Exfoliation
Lactic acid, Mandelic acid + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid, mandelic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3–3.7%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~1.7–2.1%
Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Lactic acid, Mandelic acid + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Helping to improve the appearance of tone and texture, the pads promote a smoother and more even complexion, helping to gently reduce the appearance of marks and discoloration, without drying out the skin.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid, mandelic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3–3.7%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%
ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Ubiquinone + 14 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.6%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~1.7–2.1%
Prunus persica fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.55–0.85%
Achillea millefolium extractEffect: LowPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractEffect: LowA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.55%
Rubus idaeus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.4%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.4%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~1.6–1.9%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.5–0.7%
Colloidal oatmealEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.3–0.6%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Lactic acid, Centella asiatica extract + 16 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: copper pca, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, caprylic/capric glycerides.

Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3–3.7%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.6%
Caprylic/capric glyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Copper pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.25–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.5%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.45%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.45%
Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~1.6–1.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Colloidal oatmealUnder-dosedHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.3–0.6%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Lactic acid, Centella asiatica extract + 6 more
May help

This product contains centella asiatica extract, lactic acid, resveratrol. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3–3.7%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.6%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.4%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Achillea millefolium extract + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 37 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~4.4–5.4%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~2.3–2.8%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~1.7–2.1%est.
Achillea millefolium extractPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~1.2–1.4%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower extractA plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritatingHigh~0.8–1.2%est.
Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Prunus persica fruit extractA fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.4%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~3–3.7%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Rubus idaeus fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Peg-30 stearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.25–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hamamelis virginiana water~4.4–5.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Polysorbate 20~3.8–4.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Lactic acid~3–3.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Mandelic acid~2.3–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Salix alba bark extract~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~1.6–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Achillea millefolium extract~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract
Anthemis nobilis flower extract~0.8–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating

More about Anthemis nobilis flower extract
Rose extract~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract
Soy isoflavones~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Citrus limon peel extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Prunus persica fruit extract~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Prunus persica fruit extract
Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract
Coriandrum sativum fruit/leaf extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.25–0.5%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Fucus vesiculosus extract
Vanilla planifolia fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit extract
Copper pca~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Copper pca
Zinc pca~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Rubus idaeus fruit extract~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Rubus idaeus fruit extract
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Potassium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Triethyl citrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Water~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric glycerides~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Caprylic/capric glycerides
Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Sodium bicarbonate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the product pH

More about Sodium bicarbonate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Colloidal oatmeal~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Colloidal oatmeal
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Soy isoflavones~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Phospholipids~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Resveratrol~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol
Ubiquinone~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Achillea millefolium extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract
Copper pca~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Copper pca
Sodium pca~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Zinc pca~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Glycerin~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Octoxynol-9~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Octoxynol-9
Peg-30 stearate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-30 stearate
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Dimethicone~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Tetrasodium edta~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Sorbic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Hamamelis virginiana water, Polysorbate 20, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, Salix alba bark extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Achillea millefolium extract, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Rose extract, Soy isoflavones, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Prunus persica fruit extract, Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract, Coriandrum sativum fruit/leaf extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Copper pca, Zinc pca, Glycerin, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Rubus idaeus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Potassium hydroxide, Triethyl citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Benzoic acid, Potassium sorbate, Water, Caprylic/capric glycerides, Polysorbate 20, Sodium bicarbonate, Sodium hyaluronate, Colloidal oatmeal, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Soy isoflavones, Phospholipids, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone, Achillea millefolium extract, Copper pca, Sodium pca, Zinc pca, Glycerin, Octoxynol-9, Peg-30 stearate, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Citric acid, Tetrasodium edta, Sorbic acid, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr Dennis Gross20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle PeelYOUR PRODUCTDRMTLGYFacialRX Daily Peel PadsRevision SkincareTone+ Correcting Pads™BarefacedToning Pads II
Match—45%44%44%
Price—$5.00$58.00$50.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 174 of 174 of 17
Key difference—Salicylic AcidGlycolic AcidSalicylic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol — Contains drying alcohol
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Product summary

"Dr Dennis Gross - 20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory, Exfoliation and Evens skin tone

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing and Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Exfoliating acids (mandelic acid 2.30% - 2.80% and lactic acid 3.00% - 3.70%). In this concentration, they will have a noticeable exfoliating effect. They can also have an anti-aging effect and stimulate collagen production in a long-run. Lactic Acid can also help to attract water to the upper layer (works as a humectant).
  • This product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.40%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • Humectants (sodium pca 0.25% - 0.45%, sodium hyaluronate 0.25% - 0.45%, lactic acid 3.00% - 3.70%, glycerin 0.30% - 0.55%, copper pca 0.25% - 0.45%, zinc pca 0.20% - 0.40%, zinc pca 0.20% - 0.40%, glycerin 0.25% - 0.50% and copper pca 0.25% - 0.45%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 89.00$ in the United States and from 80.10£ up to 89.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr Dennis Gross 20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel
Dr Dennis Gross20th Anniversary Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.