PRODUCT REVIEW
DERMATORY Retinal Spicule Wrinkle & Neck Cream
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Retinal Spicule Wrinkle & Neck Cream
adenosine
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
bakuchiol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
niacinamide
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
allantoin
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Retinal Spicule Wrinkle & Neck Cream
hydrolyzed collagen
0.65% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
caprylic/capric triglyceride
4.2% -
5.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
polymethylsilsesquioxane
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
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Anti-blemish
bakuchiol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
chitosan
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
niacinamide
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Show more
Evens skin tone
bakuchiol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
niacinamide
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinal
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Show more
Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
bakuchiol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
chitosan
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
retinal
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera oil
3.1% -
3.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
cetearyl alcohol
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
allantoin
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Show more
Potential irritants
retinal
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera oil
3.1% -
3.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
cetearyl alcohol
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
glycerin
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
caprylic/capric triglyceride
4.2% -
5.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cocos nucifera oil, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Vinyl dimethicone, Dipropylene glycol, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, 1,2-hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate, Hydrolyzed collagen, Hydrolyzed sponge, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Retinal, Chitosan, Panthenol, Pentylene glycol, Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Sorbitol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Methylpropanediol, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Tromethamine, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Bakuchiol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Adenosine, Sodium phytate, Tocopherol, Sorbitan isostearate, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Tocopheryl acetate, Brassica campestris sterols, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Silica, Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Retinol, Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Disodium edta, Parfum
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nut
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmetics
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Chitosan against cutaneous pathogens
- Antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity of chitosan-alginate nanoparticles: a targeted therapy for cutaneous pathogens
- Chitosan preparations for wounds and burns: antimicrobial and wound-healing effects
- Cosmetics and Cosmeceutical Applications of Chitin, Chitosan and Their Derivatives
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent model
- Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Response
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)