Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Cream

Based on the ingredient list, "Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Cream ticks this box. Algae extract, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol and hydrolyzed corn starch in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, phytosphingosine and algae extract in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

• this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
• As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.25% - 0.45%, ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide eop 0.25% - 0.40% and ceramide ap 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
• This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.25% - 0.40%, pentapeptide-18 1.50% - 1.90%, palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.70% - 1.00%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.60% and palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.45% - 0.70%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 405.00£ up to 618.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 490.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.