Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 7
Key actives
Product Summary
Based on the ingredient list, "Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Cream ticks this box. Algae extract, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol and hydrolyzed corn starch in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, phytosphingosine and algae extract in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.25% - 0.45%, ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide eop 0.25% - 0.40% and ceramide ap 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.25% - 0.40%, pentapeptide-18 1.50% - 1.90%, palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.70% - 1.00%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.60% and palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.45% - 0.70%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 405.00£ up to 618.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 490.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Formulated with plant-based collagen it helps to visibly plump the skin and reduce signs of ageing.
Source: SpaceNK
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl tetrapeptide-17, adenosine triphosphate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, pentapeptide-18.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
A mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (retinol, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin
A plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin
An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color
An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
BEIJA FLOR ELASTI-CREAM Sol de Janeiro bring you a nourishing, moisture-rich cream designed to boost the skin’s elasticity.
Source: SpaceNK
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, algae extract.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, pentapeptide-18, phytosphingosine
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
An emollient that helps soften the skin
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Is likely to contain rose essential oil that can be irritating. Typically used for its fragrance and to create a thicker product consistency
An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products
Helps improve the product texture
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Butylene glycol, Davilla rugosa leaf extract, Isohexadecane, Hydrolyzed corn starch, Beta vulgaris root extract, Pentapeptide-18, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl stearate se, Peg-100 stearate, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Ceramide eop, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Isononyl isononanoate, Unknown, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Oenothera biennis leaf cell extract, Nymphaea caerulea leaf cell extract, Commiphora myrrha leaf cell extract, Unknown, Rhododendron ferrugineum extract, Vitis vinifera fruit cell extract, Panthenol, Squalane, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl acetate, Sambucus nigra fruit extract, Oleyl alcohol, Dioscorea villosa root extract, Glycine soja sterols, Stearic acid, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium hyaluronate, Glycine soja oil, Retinol, Carbomer, Tocopherol, Acacia senegal gum, Pentylene glycol, Propylene glycol alginate, Acetyl tyrosine, Proline, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Adenosine triphosphate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Crithmum maritimum extract, Bacopa monnieri extract, Ergothioneine, Sodium polyacrylate, Mica, Titanium dioxide, Iron oxides, Tin, Unknown, Capryloyl heptapeptide-12, Colloidal gold, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Unknown, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Rosa damascena flower wax, Malachite extract, Pyridoxine hcl, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Acetyl tetrapeptide-17, Colloidal platinum, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium hydroxide, Xanthan gum, Algae extract, Maltodextrin, Lecithin, Parfum, Gold
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- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
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- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Assessment report on Sambucus nigra L., fructus
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- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenone
- l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Study
- Use of iron in the form of a stone extract as stimulus of the synthesis of collagen by skin fibroblasts
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin