Dermalogica

Dermalogica multivitamin power recovery cream

Name: Dermalogica - multivitamin power recovery cream
Brand: Dermalogica

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

7 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Multi Vitamin Power Recovery Cream solves these 4 visible signs of skin stress after 1 use.”

Source: Dermalogica

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%

ChrysinEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.25–0.5%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%

Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Moisturizing

25 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“multivitamin power recovery cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, pantolactone.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, linoleic acid, niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, panthenol

PantolactoneKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.6%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.4–1.7%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ethylhexyl olivateKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.7%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.3–0.6%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%

Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~2–2.4%

Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.65%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~2.3–2.8%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.6–2%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1–1.3%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~3.1–3.8%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%

C15-19 alkaneEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.3–0.6%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.55–0.85%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.6%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - chrysin, haematococcus pluvialis extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.5%

ChrysinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin~0.25–0.5%

Haematococcus pluvialis extractKey activeEffect: MediumGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin~0.35–0.65%

Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.3–0.55%

Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.7%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: chrysin.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.6%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~2–2.4%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

18 strong irritants: Aniba rosodora wood oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil + 16 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 38 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Aniba rosodora wood oilA fragrant plant oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oilAn essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Cymbopogon martini oilAromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritantHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil—High~0.25–0.5%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Haematococcus pluvialis extractGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

ChrysinMight be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Laureth-23Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Trideceth-6 phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1–1.3%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.3–0.6%est.

Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Laureth-23Helps oil and water mix together2/5~0.35–0.65%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.7–5.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Panthenol~2.3–2.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Linoleic acid~2–2.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Cetyl palmitate~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Niacinamide~1.4–1.7%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Propanediol~1.2–1.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Cetearyl alcohol~1–1.3%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Ethylhexyl olivate~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl olivate

Cetearyl olivate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.55–0.85%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.45–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

Haematococcus pluvialis extract~0.35–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin

More about Haematococcus pluvialis extract

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Lactic acid~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)

More about Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate

Glycine soja oil~0.3–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Aniba rosodora wood oil~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrant plant oil. Can be irritating

More about Aniba rosodora wood oil

Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizing

More about Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil

Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil

Citrus limon peel extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract

Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil

Citrus limon peel oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Cupressus sempervirens leaf/nut/stem oil~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cupressus sempervirens leaf/nut/stem oil

Cymbopogon martini oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Aromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritant

More about Cymbopogon martini oil

Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters

Spirodela polyrhiza extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Spirodela polyrhiza extract

Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-10 laurate

Squalane~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Polyglycerin-10~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyglycerin-10

Linolenic acid~0.35–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid

Chrysin~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin

More about Chrysin

Beta-carotene~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Retinol~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

C15-19 alkane~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about C15-19 alkane

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Sorbitan olivate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate

Sorbitan oleate~0.3–0.55%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate

Pantolactone~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Pantolactone

Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Laureth-23~0.35–0.65%

Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-23

Trideceth-6 phosphate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Trideceth-6 phosphate

Citric acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer

Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6

Linalool~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Eugenol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol

Limonene~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Geraniol~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Citronellol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Citral~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Panthenol, Linoleic acid, Cetyl palmitate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cetearyl alcohol, Ethylhexyl olivate, Cetearyl olivate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tocopheryl acetate, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Hydroxyacetophenone, Haematococcus pluvialis extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Lactic acid, Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, Glycine soja oil, Aniba rosodora wood oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Citrus limon peel extract, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cupressus sempervirens leaf/nut/stem oil, Cymbopogon martini oil, Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Spirodela polyrhiza extract, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Squalane, Polyglycerin-10, Linolenic acid, Chrysin, Beta-carotene, Retinol, Pentylene glycol, Ceramide np, C15-19 alkane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan olivate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Sorbitan oleate, Pantolactone, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 phosphate, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Citral, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl alcohol

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Dermalogica

$95.00

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Amazon USPrice as of 10/9/2026 21:16 GMT

$97.00

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dermalogicamultivitamin power recovery creamYOUR PRODUCT	SENTÉIntensive Bio Complete Cream	AHCHydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face	MeebakCica cream
Match	—	78%	74%	72%
Price	$95.00	$125.00+$30.00	$21.14−$73.86	$18.73−$76.27
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 23	9 of 23	9 of 23
Key difference	—	Erythritol	Copper Tripeptide-1	Hexapeptide-9
Irritancy	High	Medium	High	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Dermalogica - multivitamin power recovery cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Panthenol, glycerin, pantolactone and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, linoleic acid, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, glycine soja oil and linolenic acid) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.25% - 0.50%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.45% - 0.70%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 2.30% - 2.80%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, jojoba oil, lactic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and caprylic/capric triglyceride

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 95.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 38 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
3
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
4
The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
5
Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.europepmc.org
6
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Effective Inhibition of Skin Cancer, Tyrosinase, and Antioxidative Properties by Astaxanthin and Astaxanthin Esters from the Green Alga Haematococcus pluvialispubs.acs.org
9
Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of Toxicity and Efficacy of A New Astaxanthin-rich Haematococcus pluvialis Extractjstage.jst.go.jp
10
Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
12
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
15
An exemplary claim substantiation for the firming / filling activity of a synthetic tripeptideresearchgate.net
16
Safety Assessment of Anthemis nobilis– Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
17
Fragrance Compound Geraniol Forms Contact Allergens on Air Exposure. Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization
18
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
20
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
21
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
22
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
24
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
28
In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
29
Anti-photoageing and anti-melanogenesis activities of chrysinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Chrysin Protects Epidermal Keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-Induced Damagepubs.acs.org
31
Inhibition of melanogenesis by 5,7-dihydroxyflavone (chrysin) via blocking adenylyl cyclase activitysciencedirect.com
32
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
35
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
37
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org

Dermalogicamultivitamin power recovery cream

Buy at Dermalogica$95.00 $97.00as of 10/9 21:16 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Dermalogica$95.00 $97.00as of 10/9 21:16 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.