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Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream
Chantecaille

Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Lactobacillus ferment + 32 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“hydrate the skin”
Source: Allbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.05–0.25%
Myristyl myristateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~1.5–2.2%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.55%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.1–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.4%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.1–0.4%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.1–0.45%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.1–0.45%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.1–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.9%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.1–0.35%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.15–0.6%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.1–1.7%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.1–0.45%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~5.6–8.4%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~2–3%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~3.2–4.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.7%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.75%
Ananas sativus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skin~0.1–0.45%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.1–0.4%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.15–0.55%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.1–0.35%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.1–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–1%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.55–1.25%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.45%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture + 8 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“address the visible signs of ageing”
Source: Allbeauty

This product contains palmitoyl tripeptide-5. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureEffect: LowHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.15–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.45%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.35%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–1%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ascorbic acid + 2 more
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“brightens and evens skin tone”
Source: SpaceNK EU

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.45%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.35%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Rosa damascena flower oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 40 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~25–37%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Acacia decurrens flower waxUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
EscinA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skinHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.1–0.4%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Sorbitan tristearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–1.35%est.
PtfeUsed to create a nice product finishMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.3%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Ananas sativus fruit extractA fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skinMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~2–3%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~1.5–2.2%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.45–1%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.1–0.45%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~3.2–4.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~25–37%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Cyclopentasiloxane~5.6–8.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin~4.2–6.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glyceryl stearate se~3.2–4.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Butylene glycol~2.5–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ethylhexyl palmitate~2–3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Peg-40 stearate~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 stearate
Myristyl myristate~1.5–2.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Cetyl alcohol~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Sorbitan tristearate~0.6–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan tristearate
Stearic acid~0.55–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.45–1%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Dimethicone~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Ptfe~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a nice product finish

More about Ptfe
Polyacrylamide~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Diphenyl dimethicone~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Diphenyl dimethicone
Sorbitol~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Ppg-25-laureth-25~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ppg-25-laureth-25
Mica~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Pullulan~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Bisabolol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Oenothera biennis oil~0.1–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Hydrolyzed fibroin~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed fibroin
Ci 77891~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Dimethiconol~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Disodium edta~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Lactobacillus ferment~0.05–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Laureth-7~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Sodium polyacrylate~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Maltodextrin~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Hexylene glycol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Acacia decurrens flower wax~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Acacia decurrens flower wax
Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax
Nannochloropsis oculata extract~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A microalgae extract that helps to attact water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Nannochloropsis oculata extract
Narcissus poeticus flower wax~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Narcissus poeticus flower wax
Panthenol~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Escin~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin

More about Escin
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.1–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.1–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Ruscus aculeatus root extract~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ruscus aculeatus root extract
Peg-8~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Ci 77491~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Alcohol~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Arginine~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Glycine~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Methionine~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methionine
Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ammonium glycyrrhizate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ammonium glycyrrhizate
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Hydrolyzed yeast protein~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed yeast protein
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.1–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Echinacea angustifolia root extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Echinacea angustifolia root extract
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.15–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Ananas sativus fruit extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skin

More about Ananas sativus fruit extract
Sodium succinate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium succinate
Bht~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Sorbic acid~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Undecylenic acid~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Undecylenic acid
Ascorbic acid~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ci 77480~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77480
Geraniol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Farnesol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate se, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Peg-40 stearate, Myristyl myristate, Cetyl alcohol, Sorbitan tristearate, Stearic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Dimethicone, Ptfe, Polyacrylamide, Caprylyl glycol, Diphenyl dimethicone, Sorbitol, Ppg-25-laureth-25, Mica, C13-14 isoparaffin, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Bisabolol, Borago officinalis seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Hydrolyzed fibroin, Ci 77891, Dimethiconol, Disodium edta, Xanthan gum, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Lactobacillus ferment, Laureth-7, Sodium polyacrylate, Tocopheryl acetate, Maltodextrin, Hexylene glycol, Rosa damascena flower oil, Acacia decurrens flower wax, Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax, Nannochloropsis oculata extract, Narcissus poeticus flower wax, Panthenol, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinyl palmitate, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Escin, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Ruscus aculeatus root extract, Peg-8, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Ci 77491, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Alcohol, Sodium hydroxide, Arginine, Glycine, Methionine, Tocopherol, Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Hydrolyzed yeast protein, Sodium benzoate, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Potassium sorbate, Sodium dehydroacetate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Echinacea angustifolia root extract, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Sodium citrate, Ananas sativus fruit extract, Sodium succinate, Bht, Sorbic acid, Undecylenic acid, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Ci 77480, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Farnesol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ChantecailleNano Gold Energizing CreamYOUR PRODUCTRejuranTurnover Cream Enhanced 50mlCirem SkincareYouthboost Diamond Moisturizing CreamilsoCencera Repair Cream 50ml
Match—58%56%56%
Price$425.00$24.54−$400.46—$27.35−$397.65
Shared key ingredients—7 of 206 of 207 of 20
Key difference—NiacinamideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"Chantecaille - Nano Gold Energizing Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Arginine, glycerin, glycine, lactobacillus ferment and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Borago officinalis seed oil, oenothera biennis oil, arginine, dimethicone and dimethiconol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.10% - 0.35%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.10% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c, vitamin e, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, titanium dioxide and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Chantecaille" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails from 368.00$ up to 425.00$ in the United States, for 546.00CA$ in Canada and from 375.00£ up to 561.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 44 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Final report on the safety assessment of sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, and sorbitan triisostearatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  5. 5
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Fluoropolymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Chantecaille Nano Gold Energizing Cream
ChantecailleNano Gold Energizing Cream
Buy at SpaceNK US$425.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at SpaceNK US$425.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.