Centellian24

Revitalizing Collagen Emulsion

Name: Centellian24 - Revitalizing Collagen Emulsion
Brand: Centellian24

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

"Centellian24 - Revitalizing Collagen Emulsion" has a good moisturizing formula.

Edit

Product summary

"Centellian24 - Revitalizing Collagen Emulsion" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen and soluble collagen in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide np, glycine soja sterols, hydrolyzed collagen, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate and cetearyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (3.10% - 3.70%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.25% - 0.45%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 16.70$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

14 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, glycine soja sterols.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, niacinamide

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.1–3.7%

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

CERAMIDE NPRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

COLLAGEN AMINO ACIDSRole: Key activeHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

CYCLOPENTASILOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~2.4–2.9%

ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYSTEARATERole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it~2–2.4%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–5.8%

GLYCINE SOJA STEROLSRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.25–0.5%

HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.3%

HYDROLYZED COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

SOLUBLE COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%

TRIETHYLHEXANOINRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

BETA-GLUCANRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.1%

Evens skin tone

NIACINAMIDE at ~3.1–3.7% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–5.8%

CyclopentasiloxaneRole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~2.4–2.9%

Ethylhexyl hydroxystearateRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it~2–2.4%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.6–2%

Hydrolyzed collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

Centella asiatica extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.75–1.1%

Ficus carica fruit extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.65–1%

Ulmus davidiana root extractRole: Key activeA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.55–0.8%

Soluble collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%

TriethylhexanoinRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

AdenosineRole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Glyceryl stearate seRole: Key activeUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.25–0.45%

Beta-glucanRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Glycine soja sterolsRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.25–0.5%

Ceramide npRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

Collagen amino acidsRole: Key activeHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Hyaluronic acidRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Irritancy

11 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ulmus davidiana root extractA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skinHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~4.2–5.1%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~1.4–1.7%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.75–1.1%est.

Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectLow~0.65–1%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicLow~0.25–0.5%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.1–0.2%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Fucus vesiculosus extract—High~0.4–0.65%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicHigh~0.25–0.5%est.