Beauty Pie

Beauty Pie Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream

Name: Beauty Pie - Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream
Brand: Beauty Pie

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

Madecassoside, Niacinamide + 12 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Immediately soothing, smoothing and calming, this hydrating formula is clinically proven to significantly reduce the appearance of redness in 7 days.”

Source: Beauty Pie

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, niacinamide

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.9–1.35%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.3%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.3%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.8–8.7%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–3.4%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.25%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–1.05%

TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2.4%

Porphyra yezoensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.55%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.1–1.7%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.8–5.8%

Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.1–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.8%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Asiaticoside + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.9–1.35%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.3%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Azelaic acid, Niacinamide

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, niacinamide. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Azelaic acidHeroEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~2.9–4.3%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Azelaic acid, Niacinamide + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: azelaic acid, niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~2.9–4.3%

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%

Yeast extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.1–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Azelaic acid + 4 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, azelaic acid, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%

Porphyra yezoensis extractEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.55%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.8%

Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Rosa multiflora fruit extract

Medium risk

We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa multiflora fruit extractUsed in cosmetics for its fragranceHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.6–2.4%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.1–1.7%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.55–1.25%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1.1%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.75%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Porphyra yezoensis extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.15–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.8–8.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Butylene glycol~3.8–5.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Azelaic acid~2.9–4.3%

Hero · Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneExfoliation

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

More about Azelaic acid

Glycerin~2.3–3.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Triethylhexanoin~1.6–2.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin

Dipropylene glycol~1.5–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~1.3–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Pentylene glycol~1.1–1.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Niacinamide~0.9–1.35%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.55–1.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Polysorbate 60~0.45–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Squalane~0.45–1.05%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol~0.35–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Disodium edta~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Rosa multiflora fruit extract~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used in cosmetics for its fragrance

More about Rosa multiflora fruit extract

Madecassoside~0.15–0.6%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Porphyra yezoensis extract~0.15–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Porphyra yezoensis extract

Yeast extract~0.1–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract

Oryza sativa lees extract~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oryza sativa lees extract

Asiaticoside~0.1–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Asiatic acid~0.05–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Madecassic acid~0.05–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Prunus lannesiana flower extract~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Prunus lannesiana flower extract

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Azelaic acid, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Dipropylene glycol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Pentylene glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Disodium edta, Rosa multiflora fruit extract, Madecassoside, Porphyra yezoensis extract, Yeast extract, Oryza sativa lees extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Prunus lannesiana flower extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Beauty PieHappy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Happy Face™10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream	First Aid BeautySkin Rescue Oil Free Mattifying Gel	BiodermaPigmentbio Brightening Night Face Cream
Match	—	82%	76%	73%
Price	$45.00	$49.00+$4.00	—	$25.00−$20.00
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 11	5 of 11	4 of 11
Key difference	—	—	Ceramide Np	Hexapeptide-2
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

1
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
5
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
9
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
13
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
15
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com
16
The natural yeast extract isolated by ethanol precipitation inhibits melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and downregulating melanosome transferncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitaminsresearchgate.net
18
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
20
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com

Beauty PieHappy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.