PRODUCT REVIEW
ANIA PRICKLY RETINOL SERUM
Added by Giulia Giuliani
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Polyhydroxy Acids – aka PHAs A gentle acid to exfoliate dead skin without disturbing the deeper delicate layers of your skin.
gluconolactone
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
salix alba bark extract
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
Anti-aging
gluconolactone
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
hyaluronic acid
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
bakuchiol
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Evens skin tone
gluconolactone
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
bakuchiol
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Moisturizing
glycerin
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
hyaluronic acid
0.5% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
opuntia ficus-indica seed oil
1.2% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial properties
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Anti-oxidation
gluconolactone
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
bakuchiol
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
salix alba bark extract
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
salix alba bark extract
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
polyglyceryl-6 caprylate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera fruit extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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HIGH
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
gluconolactone
1.3% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
bakuchiol
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Show more
Potential irritants
salix alba bark extract
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
polyglyceryl-6 caprylate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera fruit extract
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
All ingredients
polyglyceryl-6 caprylate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Gluconolactone, Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, Butylene glycol, Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin, Unknown, Panthenol, Xanthan gum, Lecithin, Salix alba bark extract, Bakuchiol, Magnolia grandiflora leaf extract
Sources
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- The Antimicrobial and Wound Healing Potential of Opuntia ficus indica L. inermis Extracted Oil from Tunisia
- Allergic contact dermatitis due to Opuntia ficus‐indica var. saboten
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extract
- An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing