ANIA PRICKLY RETINOL SERUM

ANIA PRICKLY RETINOL SERUM

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Exfoliation
Gluconolactone, Salix alba bark extract
Works well
What the product description says
“A gentle acid to exfoliate dead skin without disturbing the deeper delicate layers of your skin.”
Source: N/A

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconolactone.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.05–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Gluconolactone, Bakuchiol + 1 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - gluconolactone also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.05–0.25%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.05–0.25%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Gluconolactone, Bakuchiol + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains bakuchiol, gluconolactone.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.05–0.25%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.5–1.15%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Panthenol, Cocos nucifera fruit extract + 6 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera fruit extract, opuntia ficus-indica seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~2.1–3.1%
GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial properties~1.1–1.7%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.5–1.15%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.25%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Gluconolactone, Bakuchiol
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: bakuchiol, gluconolactone

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.05–0.25%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Gluconolactone, Bakuchiol + 1 more
May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains bakuchiol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: gluconolactone

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.3–1.9%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.05–0.25%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 7 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 caprylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~4.4–6.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~2.7–4%est.
Caprylyl/capryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agentMedium~1.6–2.4%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial propertiesMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~2.1–3.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate~4.4–6.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate
Polyglyceryl-4 caprate~3.2–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-4 caprate
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~2.7–4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Cocos nucifera fruit extract~2.1–3.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside~1.6–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Caprylyl/capryl glucoside
Gluconolactone~1.3–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil~1.1–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial properties

More about Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil
Butylene glycol~0.8–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Hyaluronic acid~0.5–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Glycerin~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Panthenol~0.2–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lecithin~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Salix alba bark extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Bakuchiol~0.05–0.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Magnolia grandiflora leaf extract~0.01–0.1%
Formula
Ingredient list view

Water, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Gluconolactone, Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, Butylene glycol, Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin, Panthenol, Xanthan gum, Lecithin, Salix alba bark extract, Bakuchiol, Magnolia grandiflora leaf extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ANIAPRICKLY RETINOL SERUMYOUR PRODUCTEre PerezWhite Tea Phyto-Retinol ElixirnumbuzinNo.3 Bifida Bakuchiol Zero Pore SerumBy BEAUTY BAYBreakout Clearing Serum
Match—72%72%71%
Price—$42.80$17.81$6.66
Shared key ingredients—4 of 73 of 73 of 7
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideSalicylic Acid
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"ANIA - PRICKLY RETINOL SERUM" is effective for: Exfoliation, Evens skin tone and Anti-aging

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product contains acids (gluconolactone 1.30% - 1.90%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). PHAs (gluconolactone) especially are great for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.
  • This product contains Bakuchiol (0.05% - 0.25%). It is a plant extract that is has a similar effect to that of Retinoids but with less irritation. Bakuchiol can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation.
  • Humectants (glycerin 0.45% - 1.05% and hyaluronic acid 0.50% - 1.20%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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ANIA PRICKLY RETINOL SERUM
ANIAPRICKLY RETINOL SERUM

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