Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"Allies of Skin - MOLECULAR BARRIER RECOVERY CREAM BALM" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (panthenol, dextran, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and isomalt) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, helianthus annuus seed wax, nigella sativa seed oil, helianthus annuus seed oil and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.60%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-8 0.20% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 57.75$ up to 60.00$ in the United States, from 57.60£ up to 86.00£ in the United Kingdom, for 150.50CA$ in Canada, for 170.28A$ in Australia and for 690.00HK$ in Hong Kong.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
MOLECULAR BARRIER RECOVERY CREAM BALM
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
dextran, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Might be helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed by the manufacturer to have other skin benefits but any evidence is lacking. Can be irritating
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Enriched with crocus chrysanthus bulb extract, ceramide and an oat protein, ACP and niacinamide complex, this cruelty-free skin cream boosts collagen and elastin production and reinforces the natural lipid barrier for a smoother, plumper complexion.
Source: SpaceNK US
This product contains adenosine triphosphate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Helps skin barrier recovery for pre and post certain non-invasive procedures Speeds up compromised skin's ability to repair and renew Rebuilds and reinforces the skin barrier Soothing and rejuvenating compromised skin, Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm rebuilds and reinforces the skin barrier.
Source: Face the future
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 58/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Allies of Skin MOLECULAR BARRIER RECOVERY CREAM BALM | Current | $57.60 | |
 CeraVe Psoriasis Moisturizing Cream | 75% | $-1.00 | |
 e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream | 73% | $-1.00 | |
UpCircle Beauty Night Cream with Blueberry Extract | 67% | $-1.00 | |
 Swisse Vitamin B3 Blemish Controlling Moisturiser | 67% | $-1.00 | |
Skincare by Dr V TRIO Blemish PM Gel Moisturiser | 66% | $18.00 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Unknown, Sodium acrylates copolymer, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Nigella sativa seed oil, Isomalt, Acacia senegal gum, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Canola oil, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters, Ethyl macadamiate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Niacinamide, Ceramide np, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Hyaluronic acid, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed oat protein, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Adenosine triphosphate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, Crocus chrysanthus bulb extract, Phytol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8, Xanthan gum, Silica, Dextran, Zea mays starch, Sodium gluconate, Cetearyl alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric acid, Glyceryl stearate, Pentylene glycol, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Sodium hydroxide, O-cymen-5-ol, Potassium sorbate, Salicylic acid, Malic acid, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Canola Oil
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
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- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Methods using phytol to improve the appearance of skin and compositions for such methods
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium p-Chloro-m-Cresol, p-Chloro-m-Cresol, Chlorothymol, Mixed Cresols, m-Cresol, o-Cresol, p-Cresol, Isopropyl Cresols, Thymol, o-Cymen-5-ol, and Carvacrol
- Allergic contact dermatitis caused by isopropyl methylphenol, a new hapten
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study