
Allies of Skin 1A Retinal + Peptides Overnight Mask
Product summary
"Allies of Skin - 1A Retinal + Peptides Overnight Mask" is effective for: Moisturizing, Evens skin tone, Anti-aging and Anti-blemish
Ingredient callouts
- this product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.10% - 0.40%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
- Peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.35% - 0.85%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.40% - 0.90% and caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 0.30% - 0.70%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- Humectants (dextran 0.05% - 0.25%, sodium hyaluronate 0.15% - 0.65%, glycerin 3.80% - 5.60% and galactoarabinan 0.50% - 1.10%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails from 112.00£ up to 169.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 65.40$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Benefits
Promise: Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
This multi-purpose skin treatment fights blemishes, sun damage and dullness with its antioxidant-rich formula, enhancing complexions with a youthful-looking finish.
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
retinal | HIGH | ||
niacinamide | HIGH |
Promise: Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Supercharged with time-release Retinaldehyde, 4 Peptides, 10 Antioxidants, & 5 Brighteners, this multitasking night cream hydrates and brightens stressed-out skin while reducing signs of premature ageing Key Benefits Brightens dull, lifeless skin Nourishes dehydrated, stressed skin Protects skin from dehydrating conditions Anti-glycation protection to maintain fresh, supple skin Ameliorates the appearance of imperfections, fine lines and wrinkles Offers all the reparative and renewing properties of Retinol without any of the traditional irritation Nutrient-rich reservoir that harnesses the skin's most optimal repair period to heal and rejuvenate stressed, problematic skin — improving the appearance of pore size, radiance and skin texture UK200025999
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
retinal | HIGH | ||
palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 | MEDIUM | ||
palmitoyl oligopeptide | MEDIUM |
Promise: Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Formulated with Allies of Skin's patented Ally-R™, an encapsulated form of Retinaldehyde, it smooths the appearance of wrinkles and fades discoloration, all without any of the traditional irritation.
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.
In addition, this product contains ellagic acid, glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: albizia julibrissin bark extract, chrysin.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
retinal | HIGH | ||
ellagic acid | HIGH | ||
glutathione | HIGH |
Promise: Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Supercharged with time-release Retinaldehyde, 4 Peptides, 10 Antioxidants, & 5 Brighteners, this multitasking night cream hydrates and brightens stressed-out skin while reducing signs of premature ageing Key Benefits Brightens dull, lifeless skin Nourishes dehydrated, stressed skin Protects skin from dehydrating conditions Anti-glycation protection to maintain fresh, supple skin Ameliorates the appearance of imperfections, fine lines and wrinkles Offers all the reparative and renewing properties of Retinol without any of the traditional irritation Nutrient-rich reservoir that harnesses the skin's most optimal repair period to heal and rejuvenate stressed, problematic skin — improving the appearance of pore size, radiance and skin texture UK200025999
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
dextran, galactoarabinan.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, argania spinosa kernel oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil | HIGH | ||
argania spinosa kernel oil | HIGH | ||
palmitoyl oligopeptide | HIGH |
Other benefit: Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (glutathione) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - chrysin, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
---|---|---|---|
glutathione | HIGH | ||
vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil | MEDIUM | ||
chrysin | MEDIUM |
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
Promise | Can it deliver? |
---|---|
Anti-aging | |
Moisturizing | |
Evens skin tone | |
Anti-blemish |
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Potential irritants

Ingredient | Irritancy | Skin Benefit |
---|---|---|
albizia julibrissin bark extract | ||
rubus chamaemorus seed oil | ||
withania somnifera root extract |
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
- retinal
- caprooyl tetrapeptide-3
- niacinamide
- palmitoyl oligopeptide
- palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
- ellagic acid
- galactoarabinan
- glutathione
- glycerin
- sodium hyaluronate
- Agran oil
- vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
- caprylic/capric triglyceride
- cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide
- chrysin
- dextran
- +12 more
Ingredient | Estimated concentration |
---|---|
40% - 60% | |
Plain old water | |
3.8% - 5.6% | |
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant | |
3.5% - 5.3% | |
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin | |
2.6% - 3.8% | |
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin | |
2.1% - 3.1% | |
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties | |
1.5% - 2.3% | |
Used to create a thicker product consistency | |
1.4% - 2% | |
1.2% - 1.9% | |
Helps oil and water mix together | |
0.95% - 1.45% | |
A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing | |
0.55% - 1.35% | |
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin | |
0.5% - 1.1% | |
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin | |
0.4% - 0.9% | |
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles | |
0.35% - 0.85% | |
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles | |
0.3% - 0.7% | |
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles | |
0.15% - 0.65% | |
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is sometimes referred to as "natural" hyaluronic acid (even though hyaluronic acid is not unnatural and is present in human skin) | |
0.15% - 0.65% | |
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin | |
TBC | |
The ingredient is not recognized | |
0.15% - 0.7% | |
A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function | |
0.15% - 0.6% | |
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating | |
0.15% - 0.55% | |
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production | |
0.1% - 0.45% | |
0.1% - 0.4% | |
0.1% - 0.4% | |
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone | |
0.1% - 0.4% | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
Is claimed to be able to brighten skin tone by removing some blood-related pigmented compounds in skin (hemoglobin and related elements) but solid research is missing. Can be irritating | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
Might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening the skin, but solid evidence is missing. Could somewhat help in reducing the darkness of the under-eye area. Helps to neutralise free radicals in skin | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
A peptide that is claimed to be helpful in supporting vitamin D production in skin but evidence is lacking | |
0.05% - 0.3% | |
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating | |
0.1% - 0.4% | |
Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen | |
0.1% - 0.45% | |
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture | |
0.05% - 0.25% | |
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin | |
0.05% - 0.25% | |
A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier | |
0.1% - 0.35% | |
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture | |
0.1% - 0.45% | |
Helps oil and water mix together | |
0.05% - 0.3% | |
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH | |
0.1% - 0.3% | |
Used to create a thicker product consistency | |
0.05% - 0.25% | |
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar | |
0.05% - 0.2% | |
Used to create a thicker product consistency | |
0.05% - 0.2% | |
A preservative | |
0.05% - 0.25% | |
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products | |
0.05% - 0.2% | |
A fragrance. Can be irritating | |
0.01% - 0.1% | |
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat | |
0.01% - 0.05% | |
A fragrance. Can be irritating | |
Show more |
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Phytopharmacological properties of Albizia species: A review
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Safety Assessment of Polysaccharide Gums as Used in Cosmetics
- Anaphylaxis Due to Senna (Cassia angustifolia)
- Contact Burn with Blister Formation in Children Treated with Sennosides
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Wound‐healing Properties of the Oils of Vitis vinifera and Vaccinium macrocarpon
- BERRY SEEDS: A SOURCE OF SPECIALTY OILS WITH HIGH CONTENT OF BIOACTIVES AND NUTRITIONAL VALUE
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Tolerance and Efficacy of a Product Containing Ellagic and Salicylic Acids in Reducing Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots in Comparison With 4% Hydroquinone
- Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ellagic Acid on Keratinocytes via MAPK and STAT Pathways
- A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenone
- l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Study
- Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversies
- Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?
- Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologists
- Anti-photoageing and anti-melanogenesis activities of chrysin
- Chrysin Protects Epidermal Keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-Induced Damage
- Inhibition of melanogenesis by 5,7-dihydroxyflavone (chrysin) via blocking adenylyl cyclase activity
- Cosmetic product with anti-skin-aging properties
- VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )
- Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonica
- Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatology
- Final report on the safety assessment of acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl trihexyl citrate, and acetyl trioctyl citrate