AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion

Judging from the ingredient list, "AHC - Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. AHC - Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, arginine, betaine, carnosine and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, arginine, phenyl trimethicone and brassica campestris sterols) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

• We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 1.90% - 2.30%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
• This moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
• Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
• This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.05% - 0.15%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
• Adenosine 0.20% - 0.35% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 58.12A$ in Australia, for 21.99£ in the United Kingdom and for 38.50CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.