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AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion
AHC

AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Ceramide np, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 25 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Featuring a blend of bisabolol, carnosine and centella asiatica, the hydrating formula works to support skin elasticity and smooth uneven texture.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, niacinamide

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.15%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.2–0.35%
Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.35%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.35%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.3%
Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~1.6–2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.9–6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.2–1.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.45%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.2–0.4%
Brassica campestris sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Key active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Ulmus davidiana root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.2%
Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4–4.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–0.8%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Retinal, Niacinamide + 2 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.3%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.3%
Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Carnosine, Ficus carica fruit extract + 10 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ficus carica fruit extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.35%
Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.2–0.35%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%
Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Ulmus davidiana root extractEffect: LowA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.25%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.3%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Retinal, Niacinamide + 5 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.3%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.15%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.35%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinal, Niacinamide + 1 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.9–2.3%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Retinal
Medium risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Ulmus davidiana root extractA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.2–2.7%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.2–1.5%est.
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Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Retinally Liposomal Retinal Cream
HSGN Retinally Liposomal Retinal Cream
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Retinal Booster Shot 30ml
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.9–6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Ethylhexyl stearate~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate
1,2-hexanediol~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)
Niacinamide~1.9–2.3%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Phenyl trimethicone~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone
Polyglyceryl-3 distearate~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-3 distearate
Cetearyl alcohol~1.2–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Methyl trimethicone~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of silicone that helps create a silky product finish and dissolve other ingredients

More about Methyl trimethicone
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Glyceryl stearate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Trehalose~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Carbomer~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Arginine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Glyceryl stearate citrate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Polyglyceryl-10 myristate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyglyceryl-10 myristate
Adenosine~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Melia azadirachta flower extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Betaine~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Ocimum sanctum leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals

More about Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Curcuma longa root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Amaranthus caudatus seed extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Amaranthus caudatus seed extract
Ulmus davidiana root extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin

More about Ulmus davidiana root extract
Ficus carica fruit extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Corallina officinalis extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
Bisabolol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Carnosine~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Ceramide np~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Cholesterol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Brassica campestris sterols~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Brassica campestris sterols
Retinal~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Peg-5 rapeseed sterol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-5 rapeseed sterol
Silica~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Ceteth-3~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-3
Ceteth-5~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-5
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate
Sucrose distearate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose distearate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.05–0.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl stearate, 1,2-hexanediol, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Niacinamide, Phenyl trimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate, Cetearyl alcohol, Methyl trimethicone, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Glyceryl stearate, Trehalose, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Adenosine, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Disodium edta, Betaine, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, Ulmus davidiana root extract, Ficus carica fruit extract, Centella asiatica extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Bisabolol, Carnosine, Ceramide np, Cetyl alcohol, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Tocopherol, Cholesterol, Brassica campestris sterols, Retinal, Peg-5 rapeseed sterol, Silica, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Tocopheryl acetate, Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate, Sucrose distearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylyl glycol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AHCYouth Focus Pro Retinal EmulsionYOUR PRODUCTHSGNRetinally Liposomal Retinal CreamArenciaRetinal Booster Shot 30mlAbibYesStyle Exclusive PDRN Volume Fill-it Booster Crème 2.5 Tube Mini 5pcs Bundle Set
Match—83%81%81%
Price$51.60$13.20−$38.40$24.00−$27.60$37.53−$14.07
Shared key ingredients—10 of 1911 of 199 of 19
Key difference—Hexapeptide-9Hexapeptide-9Copper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "AHC - Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. AHC - Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, arginine, betaine, carnosine and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, arginine, phenyl trimethicone and brassica campestris sterols) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 1.90% - 2.30%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • This moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.05% - 0.15%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Adenosine 0.20% - 0.35% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 58.12A$ in Australia, for 21.99£ in the United Kingdom and for 38.50CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Melia azedarachmdedge.com
AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion
AHCYouth Focus Pro Retinal Emulsion
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